Neighborhoods - Poblenou

For much of its history, poblenou or new town, had been an afterthought when people thought of Barcelona and for the locals it was known more for its rundown industrial zone and gypsies than as a place to live or go out. Starting in the late nineties, this began to change and nowadays it's a bustling barrio. Luckily, however, it still maintains a village feel and can be a nice respite from the chaos of the center


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The heart of the neighborhood is La Rambla Poblenou which runs from Gran Via down to the beaches; the closer to the water, the more popular it is. Like most of the ramblas found throughout the city, it's a wide, tree lined promenade with enough terraces to sit outside and enjoy a coffee or a beer while watching the people leisurely stroll by. Most of these places offer the traditional Spanish and Catalan fare of tapas, paella and sangria at prices that vary from inexpensive to a little pricey. But if your in the mood for something different, there's a great Lebanese restaurant called Arwad that's also known to have belly dancing on weekend nights.

On the corner of Rambla Poblenou and Carrer del Joncar is Casino de l'Aliança which offers no games where you can win or lose your money, but instead it provides a locale for shows and concerts, including local try outs for Eurovision contestants. It's also supposedly haunted. But before it, on the opposite corner, is Tio Che - a place famous for its ice cream and horchatas, which is a milky, vanilla type drink and popular on hot, summer days. Personally, my favorite ice cream spot is the Italian further down past Doctor Trueta whose name escapes me.

But if you really want to eat and drink well, it's better to venture off the rambla onto the side streets.  Between Carrer del Joncar and Carrer del Taulat is a small square with quite possibly the ugliest church I've ever seen but if you walk past it and cross Maria Aguilo you'll find La Pubilla de Taulat. A small local bar with white walls, the cook whips up whatever tapas he feels like that day, but almost always includes patatas bravas. Next door to it is the bodega run by his brother offering a wide selection of wines, beers and liquors.

For rices and huevos fritos con jamon, a Crema Catalan mousse, there's Vell Poblenou and for a menu del dia, there are a few places along Carrer Llull and Pujades for good quality to price ratio in an authentic Barcelona setting - a dive restaurant with metal stools and colorful ceramics. And every two doors there's either a bakery or a pharmacy just in case you need anything.

Of course, it's Poblenou's close proximity to the beaches that has seen it grow and it has a bit more of a lazier feel than say, Barceloneta. Across the green park and la Ronda Litoral are the Bogatell and Mar Bella playas that are just a little less crowded than the one on the other side of the twin towers.

Staying in Barcelona - The city center

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In a city as diverse and rich as Barcelona, choosing the right neighborhood to stay in can go a long way into making your trip either a pleasant experience or one to forget.  Each barrio, like most things in life, offers distinct advantages and disadvantages, depending on what you're looking for.  Wanna spend your nights bar and club hopping, and your days lounging at the beach?  Then don't stay near the Sagrada Familia; given it's a good hour walk, there's no direct metro line to either, and you're looking at a 15-euro cab fare minimum at night.  However, if you're interested in a little peace and quiet in a beautiful neighborhood after a hard day of sightseeing, eating and drinking - then it's the perfect spot.  So with that in mind, here's the low-down on the different barrios of Barcelona - starting with those around the center.

El Barrio Gotico (the Old City).  Topped by Plaza Catalunya with Las Ramblas on one side and Via Laietana on the other, it is in many ways the heart of Barcelona.  Getting lost in its hundreds of twisting, medieval, cobble-stone alleys and buildings during the day is a must, while at night the many bars and clubs attract tourists and locals alike, making it a great spot to taste Barcelona's vibrant nightlife.  That said: don't expect peace and quiet or modern amenities like an elevator, and be careful with your belongings.  Still, with it only a twenty-minute walk to Barcenoleta and the beach, and with a chance to stay in a classic setting like Plaza Real, it's a great location for those looking to literally be where all the action is.

Above el Barrio Gotico to the right is Plaza Urquinaona and the start of the Eixample Dreta (right) district. A mostly residential neighborhood that's surprisingly quiet at night, the apartments tend to be airy and spacious with elevators, and lots of natural light.  In and around here is a great location with the city-center a five minute walk and a metro station with lines to Plaza Espanya (red) and the beach (yellow).  However, the further you go into the neighborhood the more remote from Barcelona you feel and the longer it takes to get places.

Below Eixample  and on the other side of Via Laietana is el Borne.  Once upon a time, it was as seedy as el Raval, now it's one of the trendier barrios of Barcelona.  The buildings are a mix of old and new, making elevators and space hit or miss, while the neighborhood itself is full of hidden squares and cool little nooks and crannies with a happening nightlife for the posher crowd, but along with it comes the constant street buzz drunks stumbling home, and some petty crime.

Meanwhile, to the right of Plaza Catalunya is an area known as El Triangle, and one four-to five star hotel after another until you get to Plaza Universitat and the start of Eixample Esquerra (Left) with apartments similar to its namesake on the right.  The best advice I could give is look for places off the streets: Aragó and Muntaner, unless you like roaring scooters and cars for a lullaby.

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Neighborhoods - Poble Sec

Stretching from Plaza Espanya to the Port, with Avinguda Parallel on one side and Montjuic mountain on the other, Poble Sec (Dry Town) is one of Barcelona's smaller and, in all honesty, least attractive neighborhoods.  Still, while it may lack in the beauty department, it more than makes up for it with a lively nightlife, great restaurants and the largest park in Barcelona.

Originally a shanty town that rested outside the city's walls, it grew into an industrial area at the beginning of the twentieth century, and is now a diverse and multicultural neighborhood, which is both walking distance (30 mins) to the city-center and the beach.

Start your day at Plaza Espanya and ride the escalator up to the impressive buildings that house the National Catalan Museum of Art in addition to roving art  and cultural exhibitions, before taking the time to explore the mountain and its many gardens.  If you've never been to Spain, definitely check out Poble Espanyol to get a taste of this rich and diverse country, and if you're an art aficionado there's the Joan Miro Museum.  The further you walk up the gradual but windy slope, the better the view of Barcelona, with the best coming  from the castle that sits ominously on its top.

Coming down will bring you to the tight, narrow, busy streets, and gray buildings of Poble Sec.  Hungry after all that walking?  There's a Kebab on every corner for if you're running low on funds and have a strong stomach, a local Spanish bar every two doors with tapas, menus and sandwiches for a mid-price meal, and one of Barcelona's better Italian restaurants if you feel like a bit of luxury. After, if you're there in the summer, sit outside at on of the hundred of terraces that line the sidewalks and small squares, relax and people-watch.  One of the better streets is Calle Blai with its crazy French Poodle and hip local bars, restaurants and Vermut spots.

At the bottom of Avinguda Parallel is Barcelona's theatre district and El Molino, which was known as Barcelona's "Tiny Moulin Rouge" during the early part of the twentieth century before closing its doors and falling into disrepair by the mid-ninties.  In a win for cultural heritage, there are plans of re-opening it soon. Just remember - You're in Spain, so the shows aren't in English even if their titles are. Still, there are plenty of great bars like la Tinta Roja to grab a drink and recap the day, and after there's the Apollo night club for a little dancing.