Showing posts with label history. Show all posts
Showing posts with label history. Show all posts

Monday, April 12, 2010

Holland and Spain

Had a nice trip to Holland, the land of tulips, clogs and windmills. One of the many things I find interesting about the country is its historical connection to Spain and the fact it had been a Spanish colony about five hundred years ago, which based on European standards isn't very long.  I guess that's why naughty Dutch children are still threatened to be sent to Madrid at Christmas.

Anyway, perhaps this connection is the reason I've always found the Dutch the most Latin of Northern European people. They work but relax; they'll stop at traffic lights, but cross on red if there are no cars. Service is not a high priority but efficiency is. It also explains, I think, the glutteral aspect of their language and in particular the letter "g" compared to German and Flemish. But it's just a personal theory so if anyone knows the true reason, feel free to let me know.

Back to posting, but with the change of weather will see how regularly! Here some pics from Alkmaar.



Friday, February 5, 2010

The Ghosts of Barcelona

A big fan of all things supernatural, I've always been a bit surprised at the lack of ghostly legends in Barcelona whenever I ask someone about them given its long and at times violent history. Well, I'm happy to say, there's a new book out that details the various ghouls and specters which have haunted the city.

It's in Catalan and I've got a million things on my plate, so posting about them will be slow going. Still, I just wanted to share the first spooky sighting near the famous fountain on the upper part of Las Ramblas or Font de Canaletes (near the Burger King) where legend has it if you drink from the fountain you are destined to return to the city.

Apparently in the latter half of the nineteen century when the old city wall remained and there was no running water, people reported seeing a specter in a long black cape slowly patrolling the area when the sun went down. One day it spoke to a group of girls who were filling their water jugs, causing them to flee. Tired of this ghostly apparition, the neighbors gathered to confront it, yet it never returned...

If you're interested in purchasing the book, it's available at ETC LLibres in Poblenou.

Friday, September 25, 2009

What is a Catalan?

As the number of comments an article about the history of Catalunya shows, the topic of national identity in Spain is complicated and emotional, provoking intense feelings on both side of the debate.  This, of course, makes discussing it difficult and compelling because somebody's bound to get angry when passions become inflamed.  So, what better topic on which to write, right?

Like with most of the nationalistic debates taking place in Europe, this one traces its origins back to the middle ages, when the continent was a mix of small kingdoms and principalities battling it out for resources and land. The proceeding centuries saw many of these independent countries annexed by the rising European powers of the time (namely France, England and Spain) as they set out on their colonial conquest.  But, unlike say Ireland and Scotland that became part of Britain through invasion and brutal force, the King of Aragón (and Catalunya) married the Queen of Castilla, uniting the two nations under the Spanish flag, which for the times could be considered a peaceful consolidation of power.

Initially, the region was free to speak their native language and practice their traditions.  As with Castellano, Catalan was rooted in Latin, but because the Moors had failed to conquer the region, it had none of the Arabic influence, making it sound like a mix of Italian and French.  This freedom was short lived period, however; and over the course of the ensuing centuries, the ability to speak the language in public came and went with varying degrees of violent repression, depending on the king or dictator.  Today, it's the co-official language, taught in every school, and the first basis of the Catalan identity, which means it survived the times better than Gaelic, and so ends this history lesson. 

Personally, I like the sound and trying to speak it.  There's something about the words, intonation and pronunciation that brings out a real warmth, if that makes sense.  And, because the words are shorter and it has the "jay" sound, it can be easier than Spanish.  Yet, while it is undoubtedly a different language with its own grammar and vocabulary, I can't help but hear some similarities to Castellano.  I don't mean in words and sentences, but how it's spoken - loudly and abruptly with every third word a curse.  Although, given the Catalans' scatological sense of humor, they tend to be about shit and ass rather than female and male genitalia.

Aside from the language, the second biggest difference Catalans will point to is their personality.  Unlike the rest of Spain where work is a necessary evil, they embrace their jobs and put in a full day.  And, it's true - I've never met people who spend so much time at the office and are proud of it.  Whether or not they're more productive is another question entirely, and I often wonder if they've heard of the law of diminishing returns.  In fact, I sometimes tell my Catalan friends and students - if they really wanted to be different than the Spanish - they'd not work ten hour days, but be punctual and plan.  To which they respond: "But we're Latin.  We improvise."

The difference in personality extends beyond work ethic.  The Catalans, in general, take on a more serious and closed demeanor compared to their fun loving and warm Castilian neighbors.  Many visitors comment on the sour faces of the people living here and I can't argue.  They're a stressed lot given all the hours they work.  But I will say, once you've made a Catalan friend, you've got one for life, which hasn't always been the case in other places I've lived in Spain and the reason for the common expression: "Si te he visto, no me acuerdo." (If I've seen you, I don't remember).  Still, even this applies to a minuscule minority of the people I've met over my travels, making both Catalans and Castellanos some of the sincerest and most hospitable people I've ever known.

Now, if you talk to other Spaniards, you'll hear many of the stereotypes associated with Jews applied to the Catalans - that they're tight with their money and insular, which is true and makes sense since the region once had a large Jewish population before the Spanish inquisition made everyone a Catholic and a lover of ham. And, compared to the rest of Spain, where bull-fighting is still celebrated, the fact that it's shunned here and left for the odd tourist speaks less about difference than progress, I think.

But just like the Andaluces, Vascos, Gallegos and Madrileños, the Catalans share a love of eating and dancing that can be found throughout the Iberian peninsula.  The traditional meal consists of sliced blood sausages, cured cheeses and toasted bread with tomato, oil and garlic that takes three hours to eat.  The local dance is called sardanas, which is like a slow motion square dance with a brass band.  Granted, it's not as boisterous as a caseta during la feria, but sometimes a smile on a stoic face says more than a bellowing laugh in a room full of clowns.  And, just like in every other autonomy, they love their local parties and celebrations with special times reserved for family and friends.

Basically, while there are no doubt differences between Catalans and the other regions of Spain, so are there between a New Yorker and an Angeleno, a Manc and a Londoner, a Dubliner and whatever they call someone from Cork (A screw?).  The principal difference with these analogies being that the Catalans are a people who have a centuries old language and traditions, but whose long common history with Spain gives them a shared culture, boasting such artists as Picasso, Dalí and Goya to name a few, and a style of life that still attracts the romantics.  Sadly, in a media and political environment that feeds on conflict, these ties and similarities are often drowned out by the vocal few  longing for an independence lost seven hundred years ago.  And, to them I say - Go ask a Sardinian what they think it was like to be ruled by some distant king from Barcelona back then.

Friday, September 11, 2009

September 11th

For most people this date represents the recent past and conjures up images of planes flying into the World Trade Center and terrible memories of people dying.  Here in Catalunya, it is the region's national day where they celebrate their defeat at the hands of the Spanish kings following the War of Spanish Succession in 1714.

If you're in Barcelona today, you can expect to see the red and yellow stripes of the Catalan flag hanging from balconies and rallies being held clamoring for independence.  It's a touchy subject in Spain as the comments for an article I wrote for Expatica will show.   And while I have my thoughts and opinions on it, I'm not really in the mood to discuss them today.  But I'm sure I will soon.

Sunday, May 10, 2009

A Brief History of Catalunya

I have to admit: Before I moved to Spain, I had no idea what a Catalan was, or that there was such a place called Catalunya.  I thought Barcelona was in Spain, and Spain was a country of - Well, I'm American - I didn't know what it was made up of, but I thought everyone who lived here was Español, and I never imagined it not being a unified nation.  How wrong was I.  I'd be interested in hearing if it's the same in Bilbao, Sevilla and Madrid, but at least living in Barcelona, I quickly learned that Catalunya was not Spain, but in fact it's own country, with its own language and culture, and that a small percentage here wouldn't mind returning to their independent status of yesteryear, because quiet frankly, many of the population don't care for the Spanish or Castellanos and the decisions made in Madrid.

Ignorant about its history and eager to learn more about my adopted land, I discovered through Wikipedia and conversations with my widowed neighbor Teresa that Catalunya was part of the Crown of Aragon, and it gained it's formal independence from France in 1258 with the Treaty of Corbeil; thus beginning the reign of Jaume (James) 1 and the expansion of the Kingdom of Aragon to include Valencia, Corsica and Sicily, and the promotion of Catalan language and culture throughout the territories.  A series of kings and queens followed, stemming from marriages among European princes and princesses, and then King Martin 1 died in 1410 with no heirs, resulting in King Fernando I of Castillo receiving the crown after the Compromise of Caspe.  Nearly sixty years later, the great Spanish empire was born after the marriage of Fernando II of Aragon and Isabel I of Castillo in 1469.

The presence of Castilian troops on Barcelona's streets two-hundred years later saw the Revolt of the Reapers in 1640.  Local peasants (tired of housing the Spanish soldiers who fought against France during the Thirty Years War, and seeing their resources used for a war waged from Madrid) rebelled on Corpus Christi Day, chanting: "Long live the faith of Christ!", "Long live the king of Spain, our lord", "Long live the land, death to bad government."  This led to the leader of the Generalitat Pau Claris declaring a Catalan Republic, and ended when his death created a power vacuum, resulting in the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659 and the loss of Northern Catalunya to France, with Southern Catalunya again under Spanish rule.

The death of Charles II of Spain in 1700 and the lack of a heir began the Spanish War of Succession with two European camps claiming the crown: The French Bourbons and the Austrian Hapsburgs.  Sensing a chance for greater freedom from the centralized government of Madrid, the Catalans backed the Austrian contender for the throne; only to lose their special status as autonomous territories following the Fall of Barcelona on September 11 1714.  Catalunya was once again a province of the Spanish Kingdom with Madrid as its capital; this time ruled by Philip V, grandson of Lois XIV of France. 

The next two-hundred years witnessed Catalunya's rise as a major economic center of Spain and an industrial hub with the freedom to speak their language and celebrate their traditions dependent on the whims of whichever king sat on the throne in Madrid; and so it continued as the Great Spanish Empire slowly fell apart through a series of wars that resulted in loss of most of its territories, a period of Napoleonic rule, the return of the Bourbon king, and finally in the Second Spanish Republic that granted autonomy to Catalunya, along with the Basque Country and Galicia at the start of the twentieth century. 

In 1931, Spain once again found itself a proxy for greater European powers with the Nationalist Forces of General Franco backed by the Germans and Italians and the mishmash of opposition forces consisting of Anarchists, Communists, and Republicans supported by Russia and Mexico; with Britain, France and the United States sitting it out.  A three year bitter and brutal civil war ensued with brother killing brother, Catalan slaughtering Catalan, and son turning on father; and by the end, Barcelona found itself once again subjugated to the rule of Madrid with their language banned from all public institutions and mass media.  It was during this time and based on a history of local princes controlled by European kings that Catalan Nationalism came to be with some of its leaders tortured under the dictatorship.

Today, nearly thirty-five years after the death of Franco, Catalunya is one of the 17 autonomous regions that comprise Spain, with its language taught in all schools and used throughout the local government and in many businesses.  Yet, still the battles of the previous five hundred years are being fought; although, not through guns, but in political debates about how much control should be ceded to Madrid and in the constant promotion of the Catalan language at the expense of all others.

Sunday, April 5, 2009

Montjuic Mountain and the Castle

THE MOUNTAIN
Called the Jewish mountain in Catalan and rising 100-meters above the Mediterranean sea, Montjuïc's history is in may ways that of Barcelona.  Artifacts discovered date the first settlement to the second century and the ruins of the Jewish cemetery on the south side hearken back to a different time: when areas such as Barrio Gotico were known as as Calls and were teaming Jewish centers.  Reaching 15% of the population by the time the Lateran Council in Rome ordered non-Christians to wear a special dress (in Catalunya it was gold and yellow, now the colors of the national flag), the Attack of Calls in 1391 saw their population decimated and their tombs used as building materials, while even the converted were expelled with the arrival of Queen Isabel and King Fernando in 1492.


The International Exposition in 1929 transformed Montjuic and Barcelona.  Wild gardens donated by a rich benefactor 20 years earlier became places to lazily wander on hot summer's days with the addition of stairs and paths that all linked to an open-air theater, El Grec, which still hosts many music and dance concerts in the summer months.  The Olympic games in 1992 brought the Olimpic Stadium, the public swimming pools with a city view and the strange looking communication antenna, introducing the second great transformation of its historic slopes.


THE CASTLE
Because of its strategic location, Montjuic has always had some type of fortification with the current occupant built in 1640.  Used to bombard Barcelona during the Spanish War of Succession it fell from Spanish into Austrian hands for nearly ten years and was overtaken by Napoleon in 1808. In the latter part of the 19th century it was converted into a prison, where the military courts known as Montjuic Process were infamous for the torture handed out to the convicted anarchists and successionists; and it remained in that capacity until the 1960's when Franco ordered it closed and turned into a military museum.  Today, you can find many in Barcelona flocking to its historic grounds in the summer months when the castle becomes a place to meet friends and have a picnic as a movie projects onto its walls or a stand showcases a local band.  Get there early because it's limited capacity.