What I Miss About Barcelona

For those of us who have spent an extended period in Barcelona, the city never really leaves us, even if we leave it. Guest blogger Ben Holbrook shares what he misses most about Barcelona now that it's no longer home...but for how long?

I moved to Barcelona in August 2009 and landed, miraculously, on Passeig de Gràcia in the scorching heat. I had one suitcase, zero knowledge of Spanish (or Catalan) and an un-quenchable thirst for adventure. Apart from my one month TEFL course, which started the next day, I had no plans apart from getting to know the city and perhaps to try and make some friends along the way. Richard, my contact and host for the month of August, met me and walked me through Gràcia to his flat whilst sipping on ice-cold Estrella Damm. It was beautiful and buzzing with life. People sat on the benches discussing life whilst youngsters moved slowly through the iconic, windy streets. It was the beginning of a two-year love affair, a period of time that was to change my life forever. I left the city, begrudgingly in the summer of 2011 and I have dreamt of returning ever since. Not a day goes past that I don’t find myself reminiscing about the amazing times I had in various parts of the city, and smile at how happy I was. Here are a few random things I miss and hope to one day live again. Venga, chicos! Vamanos!

Random Moments of Spontaneity. I’ve never been one to spend time making plans, it’s a shame really because I know I could have got more out of my time in Spain if I had been more organised. The truth is, however, Barcelona is a city where you simply don’t need a plan. In fact, I’d go as far as saying that you’d do better off without one. Without fail I’d spend every Sunday just wandering around the streets, getting lost in the Barri Gòtic, or El Bourn. I’d find street musicians playing beautiful music, sometimes Spanish style, other times it would be guys with didgeridoos and African drums, I loved the constant diversity. I’d stumble upon yet another quirky little cafe and treat myself to a cafe con leche and whatever they had on offer – it’d never cost more than a couple of Euros. I remember a huge group of people bursting into dance as a stage was setup down at Barceloneta beach, the band was clearly very famous and it was heart warming to see such joy in the streets. In fact, there was always some kind of stage being erected in one of the various neighbourhoods celebrating anything they could get away with.

Image from GardenVisit.com

Getting Outdoors...
Apart from August, when it was far too hot to exercise outdoors (at least for me), I would spend all of my time cycling or running along the promenade by the beaches. I’d whizz down to the W Hotel, stopping only to watch the performers along the way or maybe to take a coffee, as they say in Spain. I also loved packing a bag with some sandwiches and walking up towards Tibidabo and Collserolla. It was always greener and cooler up there, and the views of the city were literally breath taking. I’d wait for the sun to go down and then run through the handsome streets of Eixample, past Sagrada Familia towards my favourite avenue in the whole of Barcelona, Passeig de Sant Joan. I’d take a breather, watch the old men play bowls and the youngsters trying their hand at table tennis. The weather allowed so much more freedom to get outdoors and to be active - I’ve never been as fit and healthy as I was in Barcelona.

Living Simply
Naturally as with most people living in a new city, during the first couple of months living in Barcelona I spent a disproportionate amount of my time in bars. What struck me was the sheer volume of the crappy little granja bars on every street corner. The word means “farm” and they started as breakfast cafeterias where people drank the milk and dairy products of las lecherías. (Think a bakery, but for milk!) Nowadays, I guess they are the equivalent of the pubs that we have in Britain, many of the granja operators seem to have no desire to make it a special place, or somewhere you’d really want to spend an evening. They are always run by old men, and seemed to feature the same generic products. Estrella Damm on draught, red & white wine (house), cafe con leche, jamón and some random tapas that always looked like they’d been left out for the last month. These old man bars, in my mind, were perfect examples of function over form and I spent much of my time trying to avoid them.

Image from MundoAnuncio.com

However, it’s hard to avoid them when they are located literally everywhere and occupy the best sunny-spots. I found myself frequenting them, for coffee breaks, for after work beers, for cheap and cheerful one-euro-Saturday-night-beers, for a quick bite to eat – for everything! And then I realised that these granja bars summed up everything I loved about the city. They’re not about indulgence, luxury, or being overly sophisticated – they’re about living simply, enjoying a drink here and a coffee there, on a daily basis. They made daily life enjoyable and affordable and that’s what I loved about Barcelona, it was a modest but wonderfully simple way of life. I’ll forever try to live that way and to be as happy as I was in sunny Barcelona.

Ben now lives in London and is a writer for Hotel Club. He mainly writes reviews of the best and worst LondonHotels and is currently planning a dream trip to South America. 

Barcelona Nightlife - Gambling The Night Away

Barcelona isn't Las Vegas or Monte Carlo which doesn't mean you can't test you luck and play games that might not make you rich, but could pay for a couple of drinks. Many bars and restaurants have slot machines, and in addition to that there is the famous Barcelona Casino near Port Olimpic. Unlike it's counter parts on the Vegas strip, there is no internet casino, which is probably for the best as the location offers visitors sea views, a discotheque, and a choice of restaurants: either a traditional casino buffet or Mediterranean cuisine.

But of course, you don't go to a casino for the nightlife and unlike the slots you'll find in the restaurants throughout Barcelona, the casino offers games such as black jack, roulette (French & American style), plus poker to test your luck and win some serious cash. To play any of these games, you'll need an ID (preferably a passport) and to dress appropriately (no bathing suits, flip-flops etc).

Primavera Sound 2010

It's May which means Primavera Sound will soon be here. Starting the 27th of May and ending the 30th, most of the action takes place at the Forum. It's four days of great music and probably my favorite concert / festival in Barcelona even if I miss the old venue of Poble Espanyol. As with last year, they've got a great mix of bands from oldies but goodies to some up and coming acts. Here's this year's line up based on date. No times available yet. Bold indicates I've heard of the group.

Thursday May 27th: Alado Sincera, Aspe, Bis, Biscuit, Broken Social Scene, Circulatory System, Chrome Hoof, Crocodiles, Delorean, Edredón, Emilio José, Fuck Buttons, Guadalupe Pata, Half Foot Outside, His Majesty the King, Macaco Bang, Mission of Burma, Moderat, Monotonix, Pavement, Pony Bravo, Seefeel, Sic Alps, Sleigh Bells, Superchunk, Surfer Blood, The Big Pink, The Books, The Fall, The Smith Westerns, The XX, Titus Andronicus, Tom Cary, Tortoise, Ui, Wild Beasts.

A strong first day lineup with a definite a nineties influence. Aspe is like Tool except the leader singer has a falsetto. Circulatory System produced one of my favorite albums last year and Pavement is one of my all time favorite groups, although I'm a bit ambivalent about their reunion. In my opinion, Mission of Burma was one of the more overlooked bands of the grunge era for lack of a better word, while Surfer Blood, a relative new comer, takes the nineties sound and adds a bit of pop and rhythm. The Fall is a great band and I hope the sound system works this time. The XX received numerous awards last year, but I can't really get into them unlike the Wild Beasts which I enjoy immensely.  The influnce of the Clash is what I hear when I listen to Titus Andronicus, but that's not a bad thing. There are worse groups to copy.

Friday May 28th: A Sunny Day in Glasgow, Autoramas, Beach House, Beak, Best Coast, Black Math Horseman, Blackbird, Boat Beam, CocoRosie, Cohete, Cold Cave, Condo Fucks, Delco,  Diplo, Fuel Fandago, Ganglians, Harlem, Here We Go Magic, Holy Water, Japandroids, Hope Sandovals & The Warm Inventions, Joker featuring Nomad, Junip, Leda Tres, Les Savy Fav, Major Lazer, Marc Almond, Nueva Volcano,  Oscartienealas, Panda Bear, Pixies, Scout Niblett, Shellac, Spoon, Standstill, The Bloody Beatroots Death Crew, The Dallas Guild, The King Kahn & BBQ Show, The New Pornographers, the Nu Niles, Thee Oh Sees, Wilco, Wild Honey, Wire, Yeasayer.

A night of musical heavy weights with the Pixies, Wilco and Wire. It'll be interesting to see what songs each picks for their set given the wealth of material to choose from. Japandroids and Les Savy Fav remind me too much of other groups but without the enthusiasm of say Titus Andronicus who play on Thursday. Spoon are quality but not something I listen to much. Panda Bear should be interesting to see live while I wish just for once Steve Albini would bring back Big Black instead of Shellac.

Saturday May 29th: Atlas Sound, Ben Frost, Bigott, Boy 8-Bit, Built to Spill, Camaron - La Leyenda del Tiempo, Dinero, Dr. Dog, Dum Dum Girls, Endless Boogie, Fake Blood, Grizzly Bear, HEALTH, Lee "Scratch" Perry, Matt & Kim, Mujeres, Nana Grizol, Niño y Pistola, No Age, ODDSAC, Orbital, Pet Shop Boys, Polvo, Real Estate, Roddy Frame, Sian Alice Group, So Cow, Sunny Day Real Estate, The Bundles, The Charlatans, The Clean, The Drums, The Psychic Paramount, The Slits, Thelematicos, Trigger, Van Dyke Parks, Za!

If I had to pick one day to go, this would be it. Atlas Sound's last album still gets a lot of play in the house, while Built to Spill is a great band live. Dum Dum Girls, HEALTH and No Age all hail from L.A. and offer a taste of the different musical sound Lala land is famous for: sunny pop, in your face aggression, and sonic experimentation, sometimes in the same song. Mat & Kim take synth pop to a whole new level. Grizzly Bear is similar to The XX - they won a slew of awards last year but I'm not sure why, while Sunny Day Real Estate is one group I could never get into depsite many people, whose opinion I respect, telling me they were great. Pet Shop Boys is a group I admire but would never pay to see and the Charlatans is what my older brother used to listen to.

So that's it more or less. There are smaller groups and different stages including Parc Joan Miró, so it's difficult to give a more detailed account.  Check out the official website for more info and enjoy the festivities! Some videos for your listening pleasure to get in the mood.

Atlas Sound & Panda Bear



Wild Beasts



HEALTH




Pixies singing Spanglish

Plugs and other Tidbits

For anyone interested in doing a bike tour of Barcelona, Steel Donkey offers an alternative view of the city thanks to some locals who are eager to show your more than the standard sights and streets. Meanwhile, Suite Life offers not only apartments for visitors and locals alike, but also services aimed at making your stay more enjoyable. One way to ensure that is to avoid the pickpockets and speaking of which, I know someone who got robbed in Barcelona is a Facebook page that's recently become quite a phenomenon with over a thousand fans and a write up in La Vanguardia. Dedicated to helping people avoid the latest scams and places notorious for their thieves, it offers maps and updates on local initiatives.  Become a fan because it's a worth cause. Finally, Pocket Cultures, where Marta from English in Barna contributes, is a great resource for any traveler offering insider tips and insights so make sure to bookmark it. Enjoy the weekend!

Placetes

I'm not sure if that's a word, but Barcelona is full of them - little squares hidden amid the alleys and buildings of the city's older districts. Often lined with bars and restaurants, each one offers something distinct, whether it be a lively atmosphere or a feeling of being transported in time, making them the perfect place to meet friends for drinks and tapas now that spring is here. The problem is, there are so many of these squares littered throughout the city, that it's impossible to name them all but here are a few of my favorites.

Plaça de Sant Pere. Located in the upper El Born, where Carrer de Sant Pere Més Alt and Carrer de Sant Pere Mitja meet, it's sided by a few bars, a La Caixa and a small medieval church, which apparently doesn't exist on any map.  Probably the least crowded of the ones on the list, I'll never forget sitting outside listening to the music of a string quartet coming from inside the centuries old stone walls of the church while tucking into some patatas bravas at a terrace outside.

Plaça del Sortidor in Poble Sec offers a mix of bars and restaurants amid the chaos that is Spanish streets. Sitting at one of the tables that lines the inside perimeter of the square, you can see kids kicking a football around, sometimes chased by a small dog. A honk of a horn and you'll watch as a delivery truck squeezes through the narrow street separating the tables from the bars, producing a shout from the kid behind on the scooter to hurry up. Then, like everyone else who has been observing, you'll return to the conversation you were having with friends about what to do that night as someone in an overlooking apartment hammers away to Queen playing on the stereo.

Plaça del Sol speaks to Barcelona's Bohemian side. Surrounded by bars and restaurants, it's in the heart of Gracia, which had been its own village for much of its history and still maintains a bit of an independence streak. One of the few squares that's popular throughout the year, the crowd, like the neighborhood itself, tends to veer to the more artistic and relaxed compared to the elegance of L'Eixample district that rests below.

Plaça del Rei. Tucked behind the main Cathedral in el Barrio Gotico is a square that can either be bustling with a concert or as quiet as it was centuries ago. Unlike most found throughout the city, it has only one bar, L'Antiquari, which is more like a stone tavern with a basement. Sitting outside at its terrace, looking at the engravings on the stone walls, it's difficult not to be impressed by the sense of history that surrounds you.


Plaça de Vicenç Martorell. Just off Carrer Tallers is a small square that surprisingly also has some greenery in the form of a patch of grass and a playground. Perhaps that's why under the arcade are the tables to some of Barcelona's better fruit, vegetable and sandwich bars.  A great place when you need a break from the crowds of Las Ramblas just two blocks away.

Like I said, Barcelona is full of these little squares or placetes. It's one of the reasons, I think, it's such a fun city to get lost in, so feel free to add to the list and see how many the really are.

Barcelona Football Club

La Liga is winding down so there are only a few more chances to see Barcelona football club until September. This Wednesday they host Inter Milan and face the difficult task of overcoming a 3-1 defeat in Italy. After that, they have Tenerife visiting on May 6th and Valladolid on May 16th. Their lead on Real Madrid is only one point, so each match is critical if Barça wants to retain the title.

There are still tickets available to catch the team live and plenty of hotels near Camp Nou. The stadium itself is an impressive site so before the match check to see if there are any tours available to get an insider's look.

Barcelona Sights - La Sagrada Familia

No building has come to define Barcelona like La Sagrada Familia. Designed by the city's most famous architect, Antoni Gaudí, it combines neo-Gothic and modernist styles to create a church unlike any I've seen.

Yet, surprisingly, for all of it's acclaim, the church hasn't been without controversy. George Orwell in his book "Homage to Catalonia" said, "I think the Anarchists showed bad taste in not blowing it up when they had the chance," labeling it "one of the most hideous buildings in the world." More recently, Josep Maria Subirachs's minimalist interpretation of the passion façade brought complaints that it didn't adhere to what was left of Gaudí's original designs, most of which were destroyed by the aforementioned anarchists during the Civil War.

Beauty or monstrosity? I personally think the former and never tire of getting the chance to walk by, look up and marvel for a second while meeting a friend or running errands. So if you're visiting, there are some great hotels close to the Sagrada Familia if you want to stay near by and stroll the tree lined Avenguda de Gaudí, which links the church and the famous Hospital del Sant Pau.

Staying in Barcelona - Hotels

Like any city, Barcelona offers a variety of places for people coming for a short visit. For those who have been here before or are traveling as a group, holiday apartments tend to the popular way to go, but there are also plenty of hotels and hostels for first timers, couples or backpackers.

Probably the most famous is the Hotel Arts, which together with the Torre Mapfre, comprises Barcelona's version of the twin towers, but by the beach. The price for an average room is more like a month's rent, and I have to admit even if I had the money, I wouldn't stay there. It's nice and all, but it strikes me as a place for aristocratic families. Of the high end hotels, Omm located on Passeig de Gracia is popular with the younger European crowd.  In addition to these, there are also the Palace located in Les Corts a few blocks from Plaças Urquinaona, Hotel Claris on Pau Claris near Passeig de Gracia and Hotel Miramar on Tibidabo.

Barcelona budget accommodations are plentiful and there are many moderately priced hotels located throughout the city.  So many in fact, it's difficult to think of one that stands out. After price, the next important consideration I think is location. Personally, I'd avoid any of the hotels on Las Ramblas or Plaça Catalunya because of the nonstop noise and crowds. If you're looking to stay in the city center, any of the numerous ones along Via Laietana, which separates El Gotico and El Borne, would be a better option in my opinion. Again, I'd recommend asking for a room off the street. Diagonal Mar is a relatively new neighborhood on Barcelona's northern beaches with numerous hotels including the Hilton. While not far in terms of distance, it might feel remote in the winter months but less so in summer.

Finally, for those traveling alone or on a tighter budget, I'd recommend staying at a hostel. It's a great way to meet fellow travelers with whom you can enjoy Barcelona's attractions and turn the town upside down. Nowadays, hostels offer a variety of sleeping options from shared accommodations to individual rooms. At least Hello BCN hostel does.

A Few March Events

For anyone interested in modern art, the big news this month is the reopening of the Fundació Antoni Tàpies which closed its doors two years ago for renovations. On the 5th, 6th and 7th of March, the museum will be free with special activities and guided tours.

Meanwhile, for music lovers, Julián Candón will be bringing his unique brand of pop-rock española to Sala Begood, which is quickly becoming one of the more popular venues in the city.

For those with an affinity for Flamenco, this is the month to visit with De Cajón Festival de Flamenco. This year they have a fantastic line-up that mixes famous artists in this genre with some of the finest up and coming talents. The concerts are being held at a number of venues across the city, from the world renowned Palau de la Música and El Gran Teatre del Liceu, to the more cozy and intimate surroundings of Luz de Gas and Teatre Joventut. Ticket prices vary depending on the concert and venue, but full details are available at The Project website.

Some of the highlights include performances by María Toledo, Alba Guerrero, Alba Carmona, La Shica, José el Francés, and Augustí Espin, who all take to the stage in Luz de Gas. Jorge Mesa performs his piece “El Pirata” in Apolo [2], while Tomasito play in the larger Sala Apolo. Los Planetas will be bringing their exciting brand of flamenco/rock fusion to the Palau de la Música, which will also host a concert by Antonio Canales and Amador Rojas. The legendary José Mercé plays in El Gran Teatre del Liceu, and Camerón take to the stage in Teatre Joventut.

As always for a short term Barcelona apartment, visit At Home rentals.

Studying Spanish in Barcelona

I've received a few messages lately from people asking about studying Spanish in Barcelona compared to other cities in Spain. In fact, this topic was recently covered in the NY Times where the questioner wondered if Catalan might interfere with her ability to learn.

Personally, I wouldn't recommend Barcelona if you're Spanish level is zero, or low, and your goal is to return home with a strong command of the language. Not because of the Catalan, but for the same reasons I wouldn't recommend LA or New York or even London as places for Spanish speakers to learn English; namely, it's too easy not to speak it and still get by and have a good time.

As I've mentioned before, Barcelona is a vibrant and cosmopolitan city full of people from seemingly every country of the world, many of whom speak English well enough to have a conversation. If you're at the beginning stages of learning Spanish, it might be tough to resist the temptation to switch to English to save yourself the embarrassment of struggling to form a simple sentence. This isn't of course to say you won't learn anything, but probably not as much as you could as say if you went to Salamanca.

For those of you with a mid to advance level of Castellano, Barcelona is still a majority Spanish speaking city, although you can't help but notice the influence of Catalan since you're in Catalunya. Still, it's not so much that it'll inhibit your ability to learn and never have I felt forced to speak it or had problems over it. Most Spaniards and Catalans are just happy you're making an effort to speak a foreign language and some may talk to you in English because they too want to practice. If you already have a strong command of Spanish, I'd recommend making an effort to learn of to speak and understand Catalan because it will give you a more complete view of the city. If you don't, few people here will hold it against you, though.

The advice I always give Spanish speakers who can already defend themselves in English is: don't study the language, instead go and study something in the language. Take a class in a subject that interests you and your fluency will improve ten-fold, I think. There's nothing like community college in the states, but there are private schools offering different courses on say photography or jewelry making that run as much as a language school and in my opinion is money better spent.

Mercado de Santa Caterina

Not as famous as La Boqueria of Las Ramblas, El Mercado de Santa Caterina located off Via Laietana near the Born is actually the oldest covered market in Barcelona. Neglected and forgotten, it had fallen into disrepair by the late nineties until it was refurbished as part of a neighborhood redevelopment project.

The colorful roof was the most prominent addition and can be seen from the surrounding buildings, giving it a fantastical feel of a colorful ocean. Meanwhile, three of the original façades were maintained to honor its long and storied history.

Inside, the market is full of stands selling fruit, vegetables, meat and fish and walking around can provoke a sensory overload from the sights, smells and sounds.  It also has a small grocery store providing all your culinary needs if you live close by. If you're just visiting and feel hunger pangs from all the food, there's a new restaurant Cuines Santa Caterina.

Far from your traditional Spanish or Catalan restaurant, it serves an assortment of dishes using different styles from Japanese to Argentinean in a setting that produces a zen-like feel. The quality of the food is outstanding, although a bit on the pricey side, making it the perfect place to bring visitors who like to pick up the check.

Neighborhoods - Poblenou

For much of its history, poblenou or new town, had been an afterthought when people thought of Barcelona and for the locals it was known more for its rundown industrial zone and gypsies than as a place to live or go out. Starting in the late nineties, this began to change and nowadays it's a bustling barrio. Luckily, however, it still maintains a village feel and can be a nice respite from the chaos of the center


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The heart of the neighborhood is La Rambla Poblenou which runs from Gran Via down to the beaches; the closer to the water, the more popular it is. Like most of the ramblas found throughout the city, it's a wide, tree lined promenade with enough terraces to sit outside and enjoy a coffee or a beer while watching the people leisurely stroll by. Most of these places offer the traditional Spanish and Catalan fare of tapas, paella and sangria at prices that vary from inexpensive to a little pricey. But if your in the mood for something different, there's a great Lebanese restaurant called Arwad that's also known to have belly dancing on weekend nights.

On the corner of Rambla Poblenou and Carrer del Joncar is Casino de l'Aliança which offers no games where you can win or lose your money, but instead it provides a locale for shows and concerts, including local try outs for Eurovision contestants. It's also supposedly haunted. But before it, on the opposite corner, is Tio Che - a place famous for its ice cream and horchatas, which is a milky, vanilla type drink and popular on hot, summer days. Personally, my favorite ice cream spot is the Italian further down past Doctor Trueta whose name escapes me.

But if you really want to eat and drink well, it's better to venture off the rambla onto the side streets.  Between Carrer del Joncar and Carrer del Taulat is a small square with quite possibly the ugliest church I've ever seen but if you walk past it and cross Maria Aguilo you'll find La Pubilla de Taulat. A small local bar with white walls, the cook whips up whatever tapas he feels like that day, but almost always includes patatas bravas. Next door to it is the bodega run by his brother offering a wide selection of wines, beers and liquors.

For rices and huevos fritos con jamon, a Crema Catalan mousse, there's Vell Poblenou and for a menu del dia, there are a few places along Carrer Llull and Pujades for good quality to price ratio in an authentic Barcelona setting - a dive restaurant with metal stools and colorful ceramics. And every two doors there's either a bakery or a pharmacy just in case you need anything.

Of course, it's Poblenou's close proximity to the beaches that has seen it grow and it has a bit more of a lazier feel than say, Barceloneta. Across the green park and la Ronda Litoral are the Bogatell and Mar Bella playas that are just a little less crowded than the one on the other side of the twin towers.

February Concerts

Classical

Classical music lovers have a wealth of opportunities to get out and enjoy some great performances this month, the highlight of which is probably El Gran Teatre del Liceu’s staging of Wagner’s epic opera “Tristan und Isolde“. Performances are on the 4th, 6th, 8th, 10th, 12th, 16th, 18th, and 20th. For those not wholly familiar with this great work, an information session about the opera will be held in the Foyer 45 minutes before each performance, which is open to all members of the audience. All the details can be found at www.liceubarcelona.cat

The Palau de la Música Catalana also has a busy schedule of concerts, classical and other, including the rather intriguing country night which will see cinema legend Kevin Costner perform with his band Wild West. Other non-classical performers at the Palau this month include Joss Stone, and a concert by Michael Nyman & David McAlmond. In the classical series, the highlights are visits by the Bulgarian State Symphony Orchestra, and a performance by the 12 Cellists of the Berlin Philharmonic.

Meanwhile, at L’Auditori, another month means another very busy schedule. The Bamburg Symphony Orchestra, Czech Opera of Prague (performing Wagner), Tchaikovsky Violin Concerts, Stravinsky conducted by López Cobos, Camerata Moravia, Concertgebouw Chamber Orchestra, and a performance by Pat Metheny, are just some of the delights to be enjoyed

Nonclassical

February may be the shortest month, but there’s plenty to see and do crammed into its 28 days this year. Not as many huge headline acts as last month, but there’s plenty of variety, and there should be something for everyone to enjoy over the coming weeks in Barcelona.

In no particular order, the month’s highlights will include visits by Arctic Monkeys, The Gathering, Queen Ifrica, Tony Rebel & The Flames Band, Dinosaur Jr. with Lou Barlow, Gamma Ray, Eros Ramazotti, The Swell Season (Glen Hansard and Markéta Irglová, who won the Oscar for Best Original Song in 2007 for the film “Once” which they also starred in), Josh Ritter, the Barcelona Jazz Orchestra, Sunn O))), Backyard Babies, Mesh, Richard Hawley, Talib Kweli featuring Hi-Tek, Biffy Clyro, Hatebreed, The Fiery Furnaces, Jedi Mind Tricks, The Penguins, Fatal Error + Invasions, and Payo Malo + The Gangsters of Love.

I’d like to give a mention to the Reggae for Life Haiti Appeal that will be held in Sala Apolo on Saturday the 13th of this month. The variety of performers offering their services has been phenomenal, and the line-up includes Morodo, Hermano L, Ras Kuto, Utan Bassum, Top Cat, Benjammin’, Novato & Mad Muasel, Prince Osito, Aniki, Green Valley, Hector Banton, and others, with the sounds provided by the inimitable Ranking Soldiers & the Nyahbingi Sound System. It should be a wonderful night, great vibes, great tunes, and a great crowd; so if you like your reggae, dub, dancehall, etc. get yourself over there.

Thanks again to Tony from At-Home Barcelona apartments for the info. Make sure you use them for your short or long term rentals!

Of all the groups mentioned above, if I had to choose, a reunited Dinosaur Jr would be the one to go to. Maybe Lou Barlow will play some Sebadoh. Here are some videos. Enjoy

New Year, New Events

The New Year starts with a bang in Barcelona, with some top artists coming to play at a wide selection of venues across the city. The list includes DMC of Run DMC, The New York Ska Jazz Ensemble, Arizona Baby, Eli Paperboy and the True Loves, HIM, Stryper, Stratovarius, Elliot Murphy, The Leisure Society, Dominique A, Vargas Blues Band, The Dropkick Murphys, Europe, Giant Sand, Billy Talent and No Way Out, Mayumana, the Crank County Daredevils, Melendi, and Band of Skulls.

For those who prefer their music a little more refined, el Gran Teatre del Liceu offers the chance to enjoy Richard Wagner’s operatic epic Tristan und Isolde, as well as a special concert entitled La gran noche de la música española. There are also performances of La Petita Flauta Màgica, Mozart’s Magic Flute adapted for children, and a recital by Joyce DiDonato.

At La Palau de la Música you can still catch the Strauss Festival Orchestra, and the New York Philharmonic, as well as concerts by Estrella Morente, Nacho Vegas, Michael Bolton, Manuel Carrasco, Mónica Naranjo, and Love of Lesbian.

At L’Auditori there are performances by the Choir, Ballet, & Orchestra of the Russian Army of St. Petersburg, a show entitled Motown – The Show, recitals by Frank Peter Zimmerman playing works by Bartók, The Love Waltzes of Brahms, and a recital by Diana Navarro.

Thanks again Tony for the post. Interested in short-term apartment rentals, At Home Barcelona has a great selection.

Sevilla vs Barcelona - The Tale of the Tape

One of the beauties of Spain is the richness and diversity of its cities. Madrid, San Sebastian, Santander, Oviedo, Granada, I could go on; there are so many places to visit and see. No two are alike and each has its own unique charm that truly makes Spain different from the rest of the countries I've visited in Europe and traveling the Iberian peninsula is well-worth your while. For example, take the capital of Andalucia, Sevilla, and the capital of Catalunya, Barcelona.

When speaking about European cities, a good first place to start I think is with the cathedral since its has historically served as the heart of the city and as such a spectacular building architecturally speaking.

The one with trees is the Gothic Cathedral. The tall spires and the lightness of the façade are a relatively recent addition (19th century) masking the short and squat style typical of medieval Catalan Gothic (Think Santa Maria del Pi and thanks CalderEagle for pointing that out).

The one with clouds is located in Sevilla, the tower at the back known as la giralda. One of the largest cathedrals in Europe, it ranks right up there with the more famous ones in Paris, Cologne and Salisbury in my opinion. La giralda was considered so beautiful in fact, los reconquistadores left it intact, razing the mosque that once stood there and replacing it with a cathedral no singular picture could do justice to. Plus, it's got real live bats for that truly Gothic feel.

Around the cathedral tends to be old district of European cities and the main arteries of life. Both Sevilla and Barcelona's centers are full of narrow, twisting, confusing alleys with the principle difference being the color of the walls: white in the south, gray or tan in the north. I also had the impression there were less balconies and drug dealers on the corners down there. Wandering around both, though, and you'll find shops, bars and signs on walls that make you stop and take a picture.

Drinking in Sevilla still maintains an authentic Spanishness. Kids clapping, singing and olé-ing can be heard in plazas and locals mix with expats and tourists at tiny bodegas and bars, the crowds spilling out on the street day or night. Barcelona's bar scene veer to the trendy, hip side, the drinkers a reflection of the cosmopolitan nature of the city who prefer to hit the town only at night.

In fact, one of the things that impressed me most down there was how well the expats spoke Spanish and seemed integrated with the locals. Many not only had the accent, but also the slight shrug and bat of the eyes that makes Andaluz so expressive and could have passed for natives had they not come from India, Ireland and China.

That's a rare thing in Barcelona. You can tell most people's country of origin from the accent they speak Spanish with, no matter how grammatically correct. There's the odd guiri who speaks Catalan. The shear size of the expat population no doubt plays a part, but there also seems to be an invisible divided between the locals and foreigners living here, but that's a post for another day.


Other differences include the trees. What I've been told are sycamores, but also known as planes, are the dominant ones found shading Barcelona's streets while in Sevilla its the orange tree that gives the city its sweet smell and whose fruit make English marmalade.

As for food, there's the toasted, yet soft, bun and the filling montadito to the crunchy, mostly bread bocadillo. Pescaito frito or butifarra? Both in small quantities, but I'd side more with the former if only for the adobo which is a battered white fish marinated in vinegar. Meanwhile, patatas bravas was starting to appear on tapas menus in Sevilla and I wondered how long it'd take for papa alioli makes an appearance here. For breakfast, Catalan pastries rival or surpass their more illustrious French neighbors while in Andalucia, they're more like bread. You're in Spain, so you're bound to eat and drink well with some scenic buildings and lively streets.

If you're visiting for the first time and don't know when you'll be back or on a short term experience, both cities are a must-visit. If you live in Spain and haven't been to either, you're an idiot. Depending on the budget, the high speed train known as the AVE is the most comfortable option. It's a little pricier but takes the same time door-to-door, offers leg and elbow room and a chance to see the Spanish countryside while reducing your carbon footprint. More pics on Facebook

Barcelona in November

The temperatures have really dropped over the last few days which means no more flip-flops, shorts or t-shirts until May. On the positive side, winter here normally sees a steady flow of concerts, exhibitions, and festivals to keep busy until beach season returns and of course, La Liga is in full swing.  Some of the highlights include.

The 41st Annual Festival of International Jazz. It runs until the 6th of December and is taking place in numerous venues throughout the city. Some of the acts are: Belá Fleck & The Flecktones, Chano Domínguez Quiteto Flamenco, and the Omar Sosa Sextet at L’Auditori, the Brad Mehldau Trio, Cassandra Wilson, Chucho Valdés & Concho Buika, Jimmy Cobb’s So What Band, Marcus Miller, Kings of Convenience, The Blind Boys of Alabama, and Tortoise at La Palau de la Música, Sole Giménez at Teatre Joventut, and Imelda May at Luz de Gas. If you only have one night and aren't drawn to any group, I'd recommend seeing a show at La Palau de Musica - a modernist masterpiece with brilliant acoustics (pictured). For more information, visit the official page (in Catalan).

For those of you with other musical taste, November seems to be eighties month with such groups as  New Model Army, Marillion, Spandau Ballet, Simple Minds, and Depeche Mode playing here. If you're looking for something a bit heavier, Germany's Rammstein return, plus Rise Against, Hardcore Superstar, and LA's own Isis. Also coming is Finntroll who are a mix of death metal, black metal, folk metal, and polka. Or at least the Finnish polka called “humppa”. (Thanks Tony for the plug and the info.)  In addition to these groups, Do Make Say Think, Sizzla Kalonji & The Firehouse Crew, Camera Obscura, The Pains of Being Pure at Heart, The Horrors, Juliette Lewis, and Muse with The Horrors being my personal favorite. See www.barcelonarocks.com for tickets and availability.

Finally, La Liga is particularly close this year with Barça leading Madrid by a sole point. For you football fans out there, there are four opportunities to catch Barça at the Camp Nou (not including el classico) between now and Christmas. .

The Burger King of Barcelona

I remember when I first came here, it was almost impossible to find a burger made of beef outside the Hardrock and MacDonalds. Why? Because the Spanish thought since it was called a hamburger, it must be made of ham, resulting in a paddy of ground pork that tasted like an undercooked sausage with a fried egg, lettuce and mayonnaise on top. And chances are if you go to a normal Spanish restaurant, this is what you will get.

But over the last seven years, there's also been, if not quite a boom, then a substantial increase of places serving a traditional hamburger, some even going so far as to offer authentic and unique twists on the sole meal most Spanish think Americans live on.

Most of the English Pubs offer some version of a beef paddy. They're normally American size (half a pound) and expensive.  There is also Fosters of Hollywood, which is an American theme restaurant that offers free refills on fountain sodas. But beyond these traditional places, there are also a two smaller restaurants that deserve a mention.


Pim Pam Burger in el Borne has a vocal and loyal following. In fact, many say it's the best burger in town, so much so that they are willing to put up with a staff who have adopted the Soup Nazi persona from Seinfeld and will pop a vein in anger if you disagree.  It's relatively cheap and tasty but with a bit too much mayonnaise for my liking.

My personal favorite is the Jazz Bar in Poble Sec where they jazz up (pun intended) their burgers with bean sauces, guacamole and other extras that make them unique to what else you'll find. Again, the cook is surly for even a Spaniard, making me wonder if they've been watching too much classic Saturday Night Live and John Belushi.

Neighborhood Festivals - Poblenou

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One of the joys of summer in Barcelona are the neighborhood festivals.  Each barrio has one and they usually last a week with live music, food and local traditions.

The most popular and famous is in Gracia when the entire neighborhood is decorated with paper mache figurines and floats, making it feel a bit like Alice in Wonderland if it had been set in a city.  More infamous and - let's say twisted - is la festa major of Poble Sec where you might catch a DJ dressed in his underwear or see a tranny on a piano showing off the latest surgery at night, while gigantic paper mache statues of people or human castles can been seen during the day.   And, while both of these have come and gone - there's still on left for those of you who have just arrived in Barcelona - la festa major de Poblenou. (thx Linda for the link)

Starting on Sept 12h and running until the 20th, it offers a little bit of everything from games for kids to concerts featuring different styles from ska to Catalan Rumba while the final night ends literally with a bang thanks to fireworks at the beach.  At the top of this post if a map, showing where it is for anyone interested in visiting.  And if I have time, I'll translate the official page of events into English to give you some of the highlights.

While I Was Away

I just wanted to thank those who've commented and/or sent e-mails.  It's always nice hearing from people who've been to Barcelona, live here or are thinking of coming.  For example,  John from Canada came for a month, lived in the Barrio Gotico and jammed with musician friends.  The end result is this little diddy called Mr. Sangria about the beer sellers who wander the streets.  You can listen to it here:  www.myspace.com/losamigosvancouver

Also, I've learned that on Sundays, there's a Special Brunch of homemade food at a restaurant near Plaça.Sant Juame.  http://www.homecookingbarcelona.com/  I haven't had a chance to go yet, but plan to.  In the meantime, anyone who has, let me know how it was.

Las Playas de Catalunya

The arrival of June has already seen the temperatures rise and the humidy start.  With air-conditioning in short supply here, the best way to escape the heat is to pack the sunscreen and towel and head to the beach.

In Barcelona there are three main places to layout and bake before hitting a chiringuito.  Starting with Barceloneta near the port, you can walk north to la playa Icaria by the Hotel Arts and Manfre buildings.  Just beyond it is la playa Marbella, where you'll find the only nudist beach in the city.  Not natural beaches, they were created as part of the Olympic games to offer those staying in the city easy access to the water, and on summer days they are often packed to capacity, so get there early.  Also remember to be careful with your belongings.

If you're looking for something more relaxing, thirty minutes north are las playas de Maresme.  You can get there by train from Plaça Catalunya and the fares aren't that expensive.  In fact up to Montgat Nord, you can use a standard metro pass.  They'll still be crowded on a hot summer's day, but less so than the ones in the city, and you can be a little less paranoid about your belongings.  Of these I particularly enjoy Cabrera de Mar and Caldes d'Estrac for a quick day trip, while Santa Susanna is a quaint little beach town that's perfect for a weekend out of the city.

Further north is La Costa Brava.  To get to there, you'll need to catch the bus from the Arc de Triomf metro station, and it'll run you about an hour or two, depending on where you're heading.   The first of these beaches are Lloret and Tossa del Mar, which are particularly popular with the British so be warned, while further north are Palafruguell, L'Estartit and Roses.  As you can see, the water is crystal blue and the settings awe-inspiring, but there is little in the way of space to sunbath due to the rocky nature of the coast.  Still, it's well-worth a visit and a great place to snorkel or scuba-dive, especially las Islas Medas.

South of Barcelona also offers some fantastic places to layout and enjoy the sun.  Different than the rocky coast of la Costa Brava, they tend to offer lots of space and sand.  The most famous of these is Sitges, which is just under two hours away.  A typical Spanish beach town with white houses and tiny streets, its wide sandy beachs and the shallow water are perfect for those of you with small children.  Further south are las Playas of Tarragona, with the most popular being Salou, which personally reminds me of Benidorm.  To get to either of these, you'll again catch the train, while all along the coast are more natural and wild beaches such as La Playa Waikiki or Altafulla that'll require renting a car.

To stay in any of the aforementioned places, you can either stay in a hotel, rent a flat or semi-rough it at a camping ground.