Spanish Valets

Accepts payment in kibble and / or bone.

Let It Snow

There are snow flakes falling outside my window today. A bit wet and so far not sticking to the ground, but pretty amazing nonetheless. The only other time I remember it snowing was six years ago. It's been a strange, wet and cold winter this year. I thought it was over because the city started to have the lazy feel of spring lately. Looks like we're in for one more storm. Brr.

Update.

It's late afternoon and still snowing at the beach and starting to stick. Incredible. Here are some pictures.

Sevilla vs Barcelona - The Tale of the Tape

One of the beauties of Spain is the richness and diversity of its cities. Madrid, San Sebastian, Santander, Oviedo, Granada, I could go on; there are so many places to visit and see. No two are alike and each has its own unique charm that truly makes Spain different from the rest of the countries I've visited in Europe and traveling the Iberian peninsula is well-worth your while. For example, take the capital of Andalucia, Sevilla, and the capital of Catalunya, Barcelona.

When speaking about European cities, a good first place to start I think is with the cathedral since its has historically served as the heart of the city and as such a spectacular building architecturally speaking.

The one with trees is the Gothic Cathedral. The tall spires and the lightness of the façade are a relatively recent addition (19th century) masking the short and squat style typical of medieval Catalan Gothic (Think Santa Maria del Pi and thanks CalderEagle for pointing that out).

The one with clouds is located in Sevilla, the tower at the back known as la giralda. One of the largest cathedrals in Europe, it ranks right up there with the more famous ones in Paris, Cologne and Salisbury in my opinion. La giralda was considered so beautiful in fact, los reconquistadores left it intact, razing the mosque that once stood there and replacing it with a cathedral no singular picture could do justice to. Plus, it's got real live bats for that truly Gothic feel.

Around the cathedral tends to be old district of European cities and the main arteries of life. Both Sevilla and Barcelona's centers are full of narrow, twisting, confusing alleys with the principle difference being the color of the walls: white in the south, gray or tan in the north. I also had the impression there were less balconies and drug dealers on the corners down there. Wandering around both, though, and you'll find shops, bars and signs on walls that make you stop and take a picture.

Drinking in Sevilla still maintains an authentic Spanishness. Kids clapping, singing and olé-ing can be heard in plazas and locals mix with expats and tourists at tiny bodegas and bars, the crowds spilling out on the street day or night. Barcelona's bar scene veer to the trendy, hip side, the drinkers a reflection of the cosmopolitan nature of the city who prefer to hit the town only at night.

In fact, one of the things that impressed me most down there was how well the expats spoke Spanish and seemed integrated with the locals. Many not only had the accent, but also the slight shrug and bat of the eyes that makes Andaluz so expressive and could have passed for natives had they not come from India, Ireland and China.

That's a rare thing in Barcelona. You can tell most people's country of origin from the accent they speak Spanish with, no matter how grammatically correct. There's the odd guiri who speaks Catalan. The shear size of the expat population no doubt plays a part, but there also seems to be an invisible divided between the locals and foreigners living here, but that's a post for another day.


Other differences include the trees. What I've been told are sycamores, but also known as planes, are the dominant ones found shading Barcelona's streets while in Sevilla its the orange tree that gives the city its sweet smell and whose fruit make English marmalade.

As for food, there's the toasted, yet soft, bun and the filling montadito to the crunchy, mostly bread bocadillo. Pescaito frito or butifarra? Both in small quantities, but I'd side more with the former if only for the adobo which is a battered white fish marinated in vinegar. Meanwhile, patatas bravas was starting to appear on tapas menus in Sevilla and I wondered how long it'd take for papa alioli makes an appearance here. For breakfast, Catalan pastries rival or surpass their more illustrious French neighbors while in Andalucia, they're more like bread. You're in Spain, so you're bound to eat and drink well with some scenic buildings and lively streets.

If you're visiting for the first time and don't know when you'll be back or on a short term experience, both cities are a must-visit. If you live in Spain and haven't been to either, you're an idiot. Depending on the budget, the high speed train known as the AVE is the most comfortable option. It's a little pricier but takes the same time door-to-door, offers leg and elbow room and a chance to see the Spanish countryside while reducing your carbon footprint. More pics on Facebook

Shopping in Spain

Coming from the states, one of the most difficult adjustments was going from the land of twenty-four hour convenience to a country where shops and stores pretty much open when they feel like it, or as they say in Spanish cuando les da la gana.  The whole concept of Spanish service is a bit of an oxymoron, because unlike in America where everything is catered to the consumer and you can buy anything at anytime, here it's basically - if you need it that bad, you'll find to time to get it.  And, if you have a problem with that: tough, it is what it is. 

I remember getting really frustrated by this attitude my first year here.  I couldn't believe everything closed at the one time I was free during the week (lunch), or that come two o'clock on a Saturday most businesses were shut for the weekend, not to mention not being unable to go to the supermarket on a Sunday for some milk and bread when the only establishments open were the bars and churches.  How on earth did they expect a person to buy anything and keep their economy going? I thought as only an American could.

But over time I realized: whereas in the states I went to massive stores like Staples for stationary, Home Depot for hardware and Costco for my shopping, where the employees worked in shifts to provide maximum service; in Spain it was the small family run papeleria two doors down for pens and notebooks, the ferretería a block away for a hammer or screwdriver and the el mercado down the street for my groceries.  Most of them were run by a couple with maybe their kids pitching in, which made two in the afternoon time for a family lunch and the weekends a necessary break from their jobs.

Besides, the whole concept of shopping here was different to what I had previously know.  Back in Los Angeles, I'd hop in the car, drive a few kilometers, fight to find a place to park, and wander through places that were more warehouses than shops with ceiling high shelves of prepackaged, super-sized products sold in bulk at discount rates.  Then, when my cart was stacked high, I'd wait at the check-out counter where a clerk would mindlessly scan all that I had bought, before loading up the trunk of my car and returning home with enough food to feed an African village - much of it going to waste as the expiration date passed before I got a chance to eat or drink it.

Meanwhile in Barcelona, shopping began in the morning with the smell of baked pastries and bread in the air.  Taking carrito with me, I'd step outside and start the day with a coffee at a local bar before heading to the panadería for my freshly baked bread and croissants.  Next I'd walk to the local market that was full of stands that specialized in different foods.  There were multiple carnicerías for different cuts of meat, charcuterías for the many Spanish hams and cheeses, fruterías for fresh fruits and vegetables and pescaderías for just caught fish and seafood.  Each person shopping seemed to have their favorite one, as did I, and when my number was called, I'd step to the counter and receive a warm hello that would lead to a conversation about our families and the weather as the couple working tended to my needs, knowing what I liked and didn't like.  Then when the carrito was full with enough food to get me through the next few days, I'd head to the market bar for a small beer and a sandwich before returning home.

Even the fact that everything closed on Saturday afternoon had become a positive, because by forcing me to do all my shopping in the morning and not putting it off until the last minute like I did in the states, I now had the rest of the weekend free to enjoy: whether it be going to the beach in the summer or laying on the couch and watching TV in the winter.

Gaudi Beyond the City

This little bronze man you see is the only statue known to exist of Barcelona's most famous architect - Antoni Gaudi.  The builder of the Sagrada Familia, Parc Guell and the Casa Batlló, his name is synonymous with the modernist period that makes the city's buildings seem more a fantasy than a reality.  Tucked away in a remote neighborhood called Sarria, I had no idea it even existed until last Friday. Same goes for this dragon gate of his:
                        



Not to mention a church outside of Barcelona erected completely out of recycled building material both outside...

  and inside.

Plus, the most comfortable bench I'd ever sat on:








To see these and visit a village Gaudi took part in designing, you can plan it out before hand and use public transit, or spend a little money and take a tour on an air-conditioned bus, where your knowledgeable guide can also fill you in on a little bit of the city's history.

Summer Time and the Livin's Easy

The sunny days and rising temperatures of the last few weeks has me daydreaming about summertime in Barcelona.  Right now the weather's perfect - warm and breezy - but soon the real heat and humidity will arrive, making trips to the beach and nights spent outside mandatory, unless you enjoy sweating profusely.

Of course the beach in Barcelona, and in Spain in general, doesn't only involve tanning and swimming, but also time spent at one of the country's greatest inventions - el chiringuito, which are the small bars you´ll find along almost all Spanish beaches.  The perfect spot to cool off and whet the whistle with cold beer, sangria or tinto de verano (red wine with either 7-up, Orange Fanta or lemonade) after roasting in the hot sun, many also serve traditional Spanish dishes like paella and tapas, in addition to such standards as sandwhiches and salads.   They aren't cheap by any stretch of the imagination, but that's the price one pays to sit outside in the shade and listen to the waves.

A Sunday Stroll

One of the beauties of Barcelona is the ability to walk out your door (day or night) and enter a world of surprises and strange sights that make you pause and wonder.  Yesterday, just so happened to be one of those days.

Stepping outside to a partly sunny afternoon, my ears perked at the sounds of brass and wind instruments floating in the breeze, and it didn't take me long to find out that they belonged to a band playing the music for the traditional Catalan dance called Sardana.  Taking a moment to watch, I was struck how different seniors are in Spain compared to the states.  Here, they are dancing and laughing, while most I know back home rarely leave the house, and seem to be counting down the days. It's really quite sad when you think about it.



Further up the street, I again found myself stopping and taking a moment.  This time it was a wooden door topped by a screaming griffin that caught my attention.  Not as ornamental as those in Eixample, it hinted at something more mysterious, like an occult bookstore that housed spells.  Of course, in reality it was an apartment building with normal residents, but the subject matter did make me wonder what the original architect had in mind, or what he took to decide on that design.


My thoughts didn't linger long on the door, this image had me getting the camera out to snap a the following picture:

A couple on a scooter with their small dog is just so Barcelona.  The only thing missing is a cigarette hanging from their mouths.

Staying in Barcelona - The city center

Ver mapa más grande

In a city as diverse and rich as Barcelona, choosing the right neighborhood to stay in can go a long way into making your trip either a pleasant experience or one to forget.  Each barrio, like most things in life, offers distinct advantages and disadvantages, depending on what you're looking for.  Wanna spend your nights bar and club hopping, and your days lounging at the beach?  Then don't stay near the Sagrada Familia; given it's a good hour walk, there's no direct metro line to either, and you're looking at a 15-euro cab fare minimum at night.  However, if you're interested in a little peace and quiet in a beautiful neighborhood after a hard day of sightseeing, eating and drinking - then it's the perfect spot.  So with that in mind, here's the low-down on the different barrios of Barcelona - starting with those around the center.

El Barrio Gotico (the Old City).  Topped by Plaza Catalunya with Las Ramblas on one side and Via Laietana on the other, it is in many ways the heart of Barcelona.  Getting lost in its hundreds of twisting, medieval, cobble-stone alleys and buildings during the day is a must, while at night the many bars and clubs attract tourists and locals alike, making it a great spot to taste Barcelona's vibrant nightlife.  That said: don't expect peace and quiet or modern amenities like an elevator, and be careful with your belongings.  Still, with it only a twenty-minute walk to Barcenoleta and the beach, and with a chance to stay in a classic setting like Plaza Real, it's a great location for those looking to literally be where all the action is.

Above el Barrio Gotico to the right is Plaza Urquinaona and the start of the Eixample Dreta (right) district. A mostly residential neighborhood that's surprisingly quiet at night, the apartments tend to be airy and spacious with elevators, and lots of natural light.  In and around here is a great location with the city-center a five minute walk and a metro station with lines to Plaza Espanya (red) and the beach (yellow).  However, the further you go into the neighborhood the more remote from Barcelona you feel and the longer it takes to get places.

Below Eixample  and on the other side of Via Laietana is el Borne.  Once upon a time, it was as seedy as el Raval, now it's one of the trendier barrios of Barcelona.  The buildings are a mix of old and new, making elevators and space hit or miss, while the neighborhood itself is full of hidden squares and cool little nooks and crannies with a happening nightlife for the posher crowd, but along with it comes the constant street buzz drunks stumbling home, and some petty crime.

Meanwhile, to the right of Plaza Catalunya is an area known as El Triangle, and one four-to five star hotel after another until you get to Plaza Universitat and the start of Eixample Esquerra (Left) with apartments similar to its namesake on the right.  The best advice I could give is look for places off the streets: Aragó and Muntaner, unless you like roaring scooters and cars for a lullaby.

Anyone got anything to add?

Barcelona Doors - Verdaguer

 

The other day while out and about I came across the following door near on Passeig de San Joan near the Verdaguer metro station in the Eixample district.  It belongs to a typical apartment building that you'll find in the area, but what caught my attention was the simple theme the architect chose.

Like with many seemingly normal buildings in Barcelona, the door is only the first thing you notice and, as your eyes move to the first floor, you discover more details to make your mind wonder.

 

 Here's a little closer view.

Who do you think they are?

Sant Jordi

Today is St. George day - the patron saint of the Catalunya.  Famous for slaying the dragon, it's celebrated with the simple gift exchange of a rose for her and a book from him.  Surprisingly, it's not a public holiday, but if you're out and about it seems like it is based on the crowds strolling the streets and looking at the flower and book stands.  And what is truly amazing is that it can rain the day before and it can rain the day after, but no one remembers it raining on Sant Jordi.  In fact in the six years I've been here April 23rd has always been a bright and sunny.  So if you're in town, make sure to take in the sights and sounds of one of the more special days here.

Favorite Barcelona Door

Ask a hundred people what they like best about Barcelona, and you'll probably get a hundred different answers.  Personally, I find myself attracted to the doors.  Don't ask me why.  But maybe a picture now and then will help explain my strange puerta fetish.  So today, I present one of my favorite entrances.

Reaches right out and grabs you, doesn't it?










 



To see it in person, go to Plaza Urquinaona 4, next to the largest Irish pub in the city.

Exploring Eixample

Not as famous as the Barrio Gotico with its labyrinth of tiny alleys and Gothic Cathedral - but for my money - no neighborhood is better to get lost in than Eixample to fully appreciate the beauty of Barcelona. 

The largest of the city's many distinct barrios, its wide streets are lined with buildings that seem more works of art than places to live or work.  The most famous of these are the ones built by Gaudi located on Passeig de Gracia, but take a moment to wander off the main streets and escape the crowds, and you'll enter a world of carved stone trees and a couple tenderly looking into each other's eyes.

Note: A residential neighborhood, its also probably the only place in Barcelona without a bar or restaurant every second door, so make sure to eat before hand.