Barcelona Football Club

La Liga is winding down so there are only a few more chances to see Barcelona football club until September. This Wednesday they host Inter Milan and face the difficult task of overcoming a 3-1 defeat in Italy. After that, they have Tenerife visiting on May 6th and Valladolid on May 16th. Their lead on Real Madrid is only one point, so each match is critical if Barça wants to retain the title.

There are still tickets available to catch the team live and plenty of hotels near Camp Nou. The stadium itself is an impressive site so before the match check to see if there are any tours available to get an insider's look.

Barcelona Sights - La Sagrada Familia

No building has come to define Barcelona like La Sagrada Familia. Designed by the city's most famous architect, Antoni Gaudí, it combines neo-Gothic and modernist styles to create a church unlike any I've seen.

Yet, surprisingly, for all of it's acclaim, the church hasn't been without controversy. George Orwell in his book "Homage to Catalonia" said, "I think the Anarchists showed bad taste in not blowing it up when they had the chance," labeling it "one of the most hideous buildings in the world." More recently, Josep Maria Subirachs's minimalist interpretation of the passion façade brought complaints that it didn't adhere to what was left of Gaudí's original designs, most of which were destroyed by the aforementioned anarchists during the Civil War.

Beauty or monstrosity? I personally think the former and never tire of getting the chance to walk by, look up and marvel for a second while meeting a friend or running errands. So if you're visiting, there are some great hotels close to the Sagrada Familia if you want to stay near by and stroll the tree lined Avenguda de Gaudí, which links the church and the famous Hospital del Sant Pau.

Getting Around Barcelona - Public Transport

Of all the cities I've spent time in, none so far matches Barcelona in terms of convenience and price when it comes to getting around. The metro here may not run with Swiss precision but you can generally expect the train to arrive a second or two around the stated time.

Here is a map of the metro, tram and local train lines. Don't let the chaotic layout fool you, it's not that confusing or difficult to master. For those visiting Barcelona, the most important line to be near is the L3 or the green line, which takes you to the city center, Passeig de Gracia, the neighborhoods of Gracia and Sants, along with Plaça Espanya and Parc Güell.

Unlike New York or London which has multiple zones, each a different price, Barcelona proper has only one, meaning you can travel from one end to the other for the same amount. And because of its relative small size, it won't take you hours to do so.

The stations aren't massive or confusing, but remember to insert the ticket with your left hand. The Passeig de Gracia stop is notorious for its three block tunnel, while changing at Plaça Urquinaona will mean climbing up and down stairs.

Personally, if I'm not pressed for time, I prefer to stay above ground and take the bus. They don't run with the frequency of the metro, but it's a more pleasant experience. It gives you the chance to see the parts of the city you might not otherwise and Barcelona is full of hidden gems. Some of the best days I've spent have been when I decided to hop off the bus at a random stop and explore the surrounding streets.

A single ticket allows you to use the metro and the bus, in addition to the local train service known as Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat. Located at Plaça Catalunya and Plaça Espanya, these trains are how you'd get to Tibidabo mountain, Montserrat, the US consulate, and many of the universities. Tickets can be bought either as a single or round trip. There's not always a person working at the window and sometimes even if there is, they'll point you to an automated machine to make your purchase. They don't always work, especially when it comes to reading credit cards, so keep some change handy.

If you're here for a few days, the T-10 offers ten trips at a reasonable price and can be shared so buying a few of these might make more economic sense than a daily or tourist pass. If the metro is you primary means of commuting, the 50/30 (fifty trips in thirty days) is an option, but I've always preferred the monthly pass. It'll ask for a number at the time of purchase and you can type in whatever is on the ID you carry around. For example, I use my California drivers license. It's best not to make a number up because there are checks periodically and if the number on the ticket doesn't match the ID, or you don't have one, you can be fined.

The TMB website is a great resource for planning you trips or if you want to know how to get to a specific location. It's available in various languages and all you'll need is an address or a well known land mark to find the right itinerary. At the bottom of the page is the time and the option to choose different forms of transport. The times are pretty accurate while the maps showing how to get from the location to the bus or train stop are simple and not too confusing.

Mercado de Santa Caterina

Not as famous as La Boqueria of Las Ramblas, El Mercado de Santa Caterina located off Via Laietana near the Born is actually the oldest covered market in Barcelona. Neglected and forgotten, it had fallen into disrepair by the late nineties until it was refurbished as part of a neighborhood redevelopment project.

The colorful roof was the most prominent addition and can be seen from the surrounding buildings, giving it a fantastical feel of a colorful ocean. Meanwhile, three of the original façades were maintained to honor its long and storied history.

Inside, the market is full of stands selling fruit, vegetables, meat and fish and walking around can provoke a sensory overload from the sights, smells and sounds.  It also has a small grocery store providing all your culinary needs if you live close by. If you're just visiting and feel hunger pangs from all the food, there's a new restaurant Cuines Santa Caterina.

Far from your traditional Spanish or Catalan restaurant, it serves an assortment of dishes using different styles from Japanese to Argentinean in a setting that produces a zen-like feel. The quality of the food is outstanding, although a bit on the pricey side, making it the perfect place to bring visitors who like to pick up the check.

Gaudi Beyond the City

This little bronze man you see is the only statue known to exist of Barcelona's most famous architect - Antoni Gaudi.  The builder of the Sagrada Familia, Parc Guell and the Casa Batlló, his name is synonymous with the modernist period that makes the city's buildings seem more a fantasy than a reality.  Tucked away in a remote neighborhood called Sarria, I had no idea it even existed until last Friday. Same goes for this dragon gate of his:
                        



Not to mention a church outside of Barcelona erected completely out of recycled building material both outside...

  and inside.

Plus, the most comfortable bench I'd ever sat on:








To see these and visit a village Gaudi took part in designing, you can plan it out before hand and use public transit, or spend a little money and take a tour on an air-conditioned bus, where your knowledgeable guide can also fill you in on a little bit of the city's history.

The Magic Fountains of Montjuic

If you find yourself in Barcelona one weekend this summer, make sure to check out the Magic Fountains of Montjuic - an impressive music and light show that takes place in Plaza Espanya Thursdays through Sundays. Starting at 21.00 during the summer, the spectacular runs every half an hour until 11.00, so you have plenty of options. And, best of all it's free!

Staying in Barcelona - The city center

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In a city as diverse and rich as Barcelona, choosing the right neighborhood to stay in can go a long way into making your trip either a pleasant experience or one to forget.  Each barrio, like most things in life, offers distinct advantages and disadvantages, depending on what you're looking for.  Wanna spend your nights bar and club hopping, and your days lounging at the beach?  Then don't stay near the Sagrada Familia; given it's a good hour walk, there's no direct metro line to either, and you're looking at a 15-euro cab fare minimum at night.  However, if you're interested in a little peace and quiet in a beautiful neighborhood after a hard day of sightseeing, eating and drinking - then it's the perfect spot.  So with that in mind, here's the low-down on the different barrios of Barcelona - starting with those around the center.

El Barrio Gotico (the Old City).  Topped by Plaza Catalunya with Las Ramblas on one side and Via Laietana on the other, it is in many ways the heart of Barcelona.  Getting lost in its hundreds of twisting, medieval, cobble-stone alleys and buildings during the day is a must, while at night the many bars and clubs attract tourists and locals alike, making it a great spot to taste Barcelona's vibrant nightlife.  That said: don't expect peace and quiet or modern amenities like an elevator, and be careful with your belongings.  Still, with it only a twenty-minute walk to Barcenoleta and the beach, and with a chance to stay in a classic setting like Plaza Real, it's a great location for those looking to literally be where all the action is.

Above el Barrio Gotico to the right is Plaza Urquinaona and the start of the Eixample Dreta (right) district. A mostly residential neighborhood that's surprisingly quiet at night, the apartments tend to be airy and spacious with elevators, and lots of natural light.  In and around here is a great location with the city-center a five minute walk and a metro station with lines to Plaza Espanya (red) and the beach (yellow).  However, the further you go into the neighborhood the more remote from Barcelona you feel and the longer it takes to get places.

Below Eixample  and on the other side of Via Laietana is el Borne.  Once upon a time, it was as seedy as el Raval, now it's one of the trendier barrios of Barcelona.  The buildings are a mix of old and new, making elevators and space hit or miss, while the neighborhood itself is full of hidden squares and cool little nooks and crannies with a happening nightlife for the posher crowd, but along with it comes the constant street buzz drunks stumbling home, and some petty crime.

Meanwhile, to the right of Plaza Catalunya is an area known as El Triangle, and one four-to five star hotel after another until you get to Plaza Universitat and the start of Eixample Esquerra (Left) with apartments similar to its namesake on the right.  The best advice I could give is look for places off the streets: Aragó and Muntaner, unless you like roaring scooters and cars for a lullaby.

Anyone got anything to add?

Barcelona Doors - Verdaguer

 

The other day while out and about I came across the following door near on Passeig de San Joan near the Verdaguer metro station in the Eixample district.  It belongs to a typical apartment building that you'll find in the area, but what caught my attention was the simple theme the architect chose.

Like with many seemingly normal buildings in Barcelona, the door is only the first thing you notice and, as your eyes move to the first floor, you discover more details to make your mind wonder.

 

 Here's a little closer view.

Who do you think they are?

Exploring Eixample

Not as famous as the Barrio Gotico with its labyrinth of tiny alleys and Gothic Cathedral - but for my money - no neighborhood is better to get lost in than Eixample to fully appreciate the beauty of Barcelona. 

The largest of the city's many distinct barrios, its wide streets are lined with buildings that seem more works of art than places to live or work.  The most famous of these are the ones built by Gaudi located on Passeig de Gracia, but take a moment to wander off the main streets and escape the crowds, and you'll enter a world of carved stone trees and a couple tenderly looking into each other's eyes.

Note: A residential neighborhood, its also probably the only place in Barcelona without a bar or restaurant every second door, so make sure to eat before hand.

Montjuic Mountain and the Castle

THE MOUNTAIN

Called the Jewish mountain in Catalan and rising 100-meters above the Mediterranean sea, Montjuïc's history is in may ways that of Barcelona.  Artifacts discovered date the first settlement to the second century and the ruins of the Jewish cemetery on the south side hearken back to a different time: when areas such as Barrio Gotico were known as as Calls and were teaming Jewish centers.  Reaching 15% of the population by the time the Lateran Council in Rome ordered non-Christians to wear a special dress (in Catalunya it was gold and yellow, now the colors of the national flag), the Attack of Calls in 1391 saw their population decimated and their tombs used as building materials, while even the converted were expelled with the arrival of Queen Isabel and King Fernando in 1492.

The International Exposition in 1929 transformed Montjuic and Barcelona.  Wild gardens donated by a rich benefactor 20 years earlier became places to lazily wander on hot summer's days with the addition of stairs and paths that all linked to an open-air theater, El Grec, which still hosts many music and dance concerts in the summer months.  The Olympic games in 1992 brought the Olimpic Stadium, the public swimming pools with a city view and the strange looking communication antenna, introducing the second great transformation of its historic slopes.


THE CASTLE
Because of its strategic location, Montjuic has always had some type of fortification with the current occupant built in 1640.  Used to bombard Barcelona during the Spanish War of Succession it fell from Spanish into Austrian hands for nearly ten years and was overtaken by Napoleon in 1808. In the latter part of the 19th century it was converted into a prison, where the military courts known as Montjuic Process were infamous for the torture handed out to the convicted anarchists and successionists; and it remained in that capacity until the 1960's when Franco ordered it closed and turned into a military museum.  Today, you can find many in Barcelona flocking to its historic grounds in the summer months when the castle becomes a place to meet friends and have a picnic as a movie projects onto its walls or a stand showcases a local band.  Get there early because it's limited capacity.

Sightseeing Barcelona

I want to take a moment to plug the Barcelona Guide Bureau. They offer some great guided walking tours of both common tourist destinations as well as some hidden gems that only locals knew about before. In fact I'm already regretting writing this.

In all seriousness, I know that many people would rather buy a book and wander a city and I appreciate the serendipity of getting lost in a strange place, but there is something to be said about having someone explain what that old building you're looking at is really all about and helping you navigate the maze of small alleys that leave most people confused and going: "Didn't we pass that building already?"

So, if you're visiting for the first time or coming back, check out BGB's many tours and spend a day learning something that's not in the Lonely Plant. My only question is: Where's the haunted tour and the ghosts?