Placetes

I'm not sure if that's a word, but Barcelona is full of them - little squares hidden amid the alleys and buildings of the city's older districts. Often lined with bars and restaurants, each one offers something distinct, whether it be a lively atmosphere or a feeling of being transported in time, making them the perfect place to meet friends for drinks and tapas now that spring is here. The problem is, there are so many of these squares littered throughout the city, that it's impossible to name them all but here are a few of my favorites.

Plaça de Sant Pere. Located in the upper El Born, where Carrer de Sant Pere Més Alt and Carrer de Sant Pere Mitja meet, it's sided by a few bars, a La Caixa and a small medieval church, which apparently doesn't exist on any map.  Probably the least crowded of the ones on the list, I'll never forget sitting outside listening to the music of a string quartet coming from inside the centuries old stone walls of the church while tucking into some patatas bravas at a terrace outside.

Plaça del Sortidor in Poble Sec offers a mix of bars and restaurants amid the chaos that is Spanish streets. Sitting at one of the tables that lines the inside perimeter of the square, you can see kids kicking a football around, sometimes chased by a small dog. A honk of a horn and you'll watch as a delivery truck squeezes through the narrow street separating the tables from the bars, producing a shout from the kid behind on the scooter to hurry up. Then, like everyone else who has been observing, you'll return to the conversation you were having with friends about what to do that night as someone in an overlooking apartment hammers away to Queen playing on the stereo.

Plaça del Sol speaks to Barcelona's Bohemian side. Surrounded by bars and restaurants, it's in the heart of Gracia, which had been its own village for much of its history and still maintains a bit of an independence streak. One of the few squares that's popular throughout the year, the crowd, like the neighborhood itself, tends to veer to the more artistic and relaxed compared to the elegance of L'Eixample district that rests below.

Plaça del Rei. Tucked behind the main Cathedral in el Barrio Gotico is a square that can either be bustling with a concert or as quiet as it was centuries ago. Unlike most found throughout the city, it has only one bar, L'Antiquari, which is more like a stone tavern with a basement. Sitting outside at its terrace, looking at the engravings on the stone walls, it's difficult not to be impressed by the sense of history that surrounds you.


Plaça de Vicenç Martorell. Just off Carrer Tallers is a small square that surprisingly also has some greenery in the form of a patch of grass and a playground. Perhaps that's why under the arcade are the tables to some of Barcelona's better fruit, vegetable and sandwich bars.  A great place when you need a break from the crowds of Las Ramblas just two blocks away.

Like I said, Barcelona is full of these little squares or placetes. It's one of the reasons, I think, it's such a fun city to get lost in, so feel free to add to the list and see how many the really are.

Spring Market

If you're in the neighborhood of Poblenou this weekend, there's a spring market featuring local businesses selling artisan products ranging from food to crafts to beer. There are also activities for kids and musical entertainment. Below is more info:

La Cervecita

As I mentioned last summer, there's been a bit of a Catalan renaissance when it comes to beers lately and I'm happy to say there have been some new additions to the market.

Guineu brewed in Sitges offers the traditional three choices; lager, ale and stout.  I only tried the lager and while not as strong as other local beers, it's got a refreshing clean taste.


Agullons is a pale ale I tried on tap and I have to say it was one of the better beers I've had in a long time.  Meanwhile, Almogàvers has one of the coolest labels, I've seen.

In addition to these there are others, but I didn't try them and can't recall their names.

To find out, visit La Cervecita for not only local products but also a wide selection of imports including still my favorite beer, Anchor Steam, although given the price I wonder if it's made from hops from Humboldt county.

L'Antic Teatre

Near Palau de la Musica on Carrer Verdaguer i Callis is one of my favorite spots in Barcelona - L'Antic Teatre.  Located in one of the old stone buildings in El Born, it was, as I understand it, originally a squatter community until becoming legitimate and reopening its doors in 2007.

A non-profit collective, their goal nowadays is to provide a space for experimental artists to showcase and promote their wares. To give you an idea of the eclectic mix of productions it offers, a couple of years ago they ran a Cabaret de Feas (roughly translated "Cabaret of the Ugly People") while in November a Belgian clown entertained the crowd and last month a night was dedicated to dub music complete with a movie and deejays.

What initially attracted me to the place was the large courtyard, though. While a small city compared to London, New York or LA, the hustle and bustle of Barcelona can sometimes be overwhelming and claustrophobic. The shade of the trees and chirp of the birds provide a perfect respite when this happens, offering a sense of space and peace amid the buildings and people. Meanwhile, the amphitheater inside is where most of the performances take place and while not the Liceu, it's not a bad place to take in a show.

Because its more than just a bar, in order to drink or eat, you have to become a member. The fee is nominal (€5) and the sign up process isn't too much of a hassle.  Plus, you get a discount on tickets to the various shows while helping the local community.

The operating hours and info are:

Tel: 933152354

Sun - Thurs 16.00 - 23.00 / Fri-Sat 16.00 -  23:30; Shows: Mon-Sat 21.00 / Sun 20.00

Keep in mind this is Spain, so the opening and closing times in the end are controlled more by the whims of the people working than any official schedule.

Mercado de Santa Caterina

Not as famous as La Boqueria of Las Ramblas, El Mercado de Santa Caterina located off Via Laietana near the Born is actually the oldest covered market in Barcelona. Neglected and forgotten, it had fallen into disrepair by the late nineties until it was refurbished as part of a neighborhood redevelopment project.

The colorful roof was the most prominent addition and can be seen from the surrounding buildings, giving it a fantastical feel of a colorful ocean. Meanwhile, three of the original façades were maintained to honor its long and storied history.

Inside, the market is full of stands selling fruit, vegetables, meat and fish and walking around can provoke a sensory overload from the sights, smells and sounds.  It also has a small grocery store providing all your culinary needs if you live close by. If you're just visiting and feel hunger pangs from all the food, there's a new restaurant Cuines Santa Caterina.

Far from your traditional Spanish or Catalan restaurant, it serves an assortment of dishes using different styles from Japanese to Argentinean in a setting that produces a zen-like feel. The quality of the food is outstanding, although a bit on the pricey side, making it the perfect place to bring visitors who like to pick up the check.

Neighborhoods - Poblenou

For much of its history, poblenou or new town, had been an afterthought when people thought of Barcelona and for the locals it was known more for its rundown industrial zone and gypsies than as a place to live or go out. Starting in the late nineties, this began to change and nowadays it's a bustling barrio. Luckily, however, it still maintains a village feel and can be a nice respite from the chaos of the center


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The heart of the neighborhood is La Rambla Poblenou which runs from Gran Via down to the beaches; the closer to the water, the more popular it is. Like most of the ramblas found throughout the city, it's a wide, tree lined promenade with enough terraces to sit outside and enjoy a coffee or a beer while watching the people leisurely stroll by. Most of these places offer the traditional Spanish and Catalan fare of tapas, paella and sangria at prices that vary from inexpensive to a little pricey. But if your in the mood for something different, there's a great Lebanese restaurant called Arwad that's also known to have belly dancing on weekend nights.

On the corner of Rambla Poblenou and Carrer del Joncar is Casino de l'Aliança which offers no games where you can win or lose your money, but instead it provides a locale for shows and concerts, including local try outs for Eurovision contestants. It's also supposedly haunted. But before it, on the opposite corner, is Tio Che - a place famous for its ice cream and horchatas, which is a milky, vanilla type drink and popular on hot, summer days. Personally, my favorite ice cream spot is the Italian further down past Doctor Trueta whose name escapes me.

But if you really want to eat and drink well, it's better to venture off the rambla onto the side streets.  Between Carrer del Joncar and Carrer del Taulat is a small square with quite possibly the ugliest church I've ever seen but if you walk past it and cross Maria Aguilo you'll find La Pubilla de Taulat. A small local bar with white walls, the cook whips up whatever tapas he feels like that day, but almost always includes patatas bravas. Next door to it is the bodega run by his brother offering a wide selection of wines, beers and liquors.

For rices and huevos fritos con jamon, a Crema Catalan mousse, there's Vell Poblenou and for a menu del dia, there are a few places along Carrer Llull and Pujades for good quality to price ratio in an authentic Barcelona setting - a dive restaurant with metal stools and colorful ceramics. And every two doors there's either a bakery or a pharmacy just in case you need anything.

Of course, it's Poblenou's close proximity to the beaches that has seen it grow and it has a bit more of a lazier feel than say, Barceloneta. Across the green park and la Ronda Litoral are the Bogatell and Mar Bella playas that are just a little less crowded than the one on the other side of the twin towers.

Food Club - The Dancing Glass

Last night was the first Dancing Glass dinner date of the year and it was a great time all around. Melissa, Luke and Christian not only know their food and how to cook, but are gracious and welcoming hosts. My head's a little foggy from all the wine, so I'll be light on specifics, but the dishes were exceptional, starting with a twist on the traditional garzpacho that used spinach instead of tomatoes through the main course of chicken in a sauce with a hint of chocolate to the dessert which was the Spanish staple, la tarta santiago.

The company was equally as rich and diverse with people hailing from Germany, Italy, England the states and Spain, leading to conversations ranging from places to hike to Spanish music to life in Barcelona. Nights like that are a reminded why it's such a special city. So for anyone looking to meet people while trying delicious food, definitely try to go to the next meeting. Seating is limited to eightish, but it looks like there'll be two in February. For more info, visit their website.

Jamón, Jamón

A while ago someone asked me the difference between Jamón Ibérico and Jamón Serrano and I guess the most obvious answer is the price with the former being substantially more expensive than the latter. Why? Well, I have to admit I'm far from a ham connoisseur or expert so I sought the advice of someone whose knowledge on the subject is much greater than mine - my Sevillana wife. Her response was "It's like the difference between Don Simon and Rioja. Now be quiet, you're making me hungry." Helpful, right? Anyway, in search for the differences and to quell her appetite we went to the local market and bought a few grams of each to do a jamón taste test.

The first difference is the appearance. Jamón Ibérico tends to be glossier and less meaty looking with more streaks of the white fat or as my missus says, "the good cholesterol," while Jamón Serrano is a darker red and tougher looking. And in this case, appearances aren't deceiving when it comes to taste with Jamón Ibérico requiring much less jaw pressure to chew. Both are salty, but whereas eating Jamón Serrano has you reaching for any liquid, the flavor of Ibérico evokes the desire for a cold beer or a glass of a good wine, which serves as a perfect compliment, rather than just a way to quench your thirst.

There's also a difference in how you eat them with serrano often used at the meat for a bocadillo while if you eat Ibérico with bread in front of a Spaniard be prepared for a look similar to the expression of a Scot if you add coke to a twelve year old whiskey. This isn't to say you can't but it's advisable to do it when alone or with fellow guiris unless your ready for the question, "Do you put catchup on Paella too?" As for cooking either, that's a definite no-no, especially with Jamón Ibérico. I actually did it once and I have to say it was the best bacon ever; it's also the reason my mother-in-law hides it every time I come to visit.

So if both are cured hams why such a difference in taste, texture and appearance? The acorn or la bellota which is the primary feed for the pigs whose legs go on to be cut into thin slices that are then served on a plate; the food for the ones whose meat is used in sandwiches are given a mix of cereals. It's amazing how a nut can have such an effect, isn't it?

Of course, like with many things in Spain, the superiority of Jamóm Ibérico isn't clear cut. I know a few people who say it's a waste of money. Also, if you decide to eat at a restaurant along Las Ramblas, stick with the serrano, because if you order the Ibérico, that's what you'll be getting anyway but with a dash of oil for the glossy look at five times the price.

Calling all Foodies in Barcelona

Anyone have a penchant for good food and pleasant conversation? There's a monthly food club called the Dancing Glass in el Barrio Gotico. As described on its website:

The six course menu, complete with signature house cocktails and a healthy amount of Spanish wine, is set to the sound of conversation between friends and strangers, travelers and locals, as well as the murmurings of an old record player.

This month's meeting takes place on the 23rd and the theme is All Things Spain with dishes, tapas and wine from various regions throughout Spain.  For information about how to attend, visit the website.

Keeping fit and trim while smoking and drinking excessively

One of the biggest differences between Spanish and Americans is their attitude towards health and fitness. In most U.S cities, there are plenty gourmet supermarkets offering organic meats, fruit and vegetables. Gyms are open 24 hours to burn off calories. Smoking is banned even outdoors in many places and no body drinks alcohol at lunch anymore. Based on appearances, it would seem Americans are the healthiest people in the world, yet when I visit home I see nothing but girth.

In Spain, there's the odd specialty market, but I have yet to see the word organic used as a marketing term, and there are gyms open for certain hours but you have to look for them. In many ways it's like living in the eighties again; smoking is still prevalent and a glass of beer or wine at lunch is not that uncommon. In general, however, Spanish people seem to be healthier at physically. When I look around the streets of Barcelona, I see less round men and women wheezing for breath than I do back home, despite the fact everyone seems to have a cigarette. 

Much of the current obesity in the states, I think, has to do with a lack of any consistent physical activity when it comes to everyday living. You drive from home to work, to buy the groceries, to meet friends, and even, sometimes, the two blocks to go to the park. Most of the day is sedentary. Lunch is spent at the desk with a sandwich and an energy drink; since no one smokes, there's no reason to ever get up except to visit the toilet. Maybe after work, you pound a few cocktails during happy hour to unwind before jumping in the car, going home and ordering food for delivery.

Anyone who has been to Barcelona can attest, you do walk a lot here. Despite the noise and congestion of a major city, it's quite compact and small, making the distance between places walkable. The price of gas, parking and maintenance makes the car a luxury, but even if you take the metro, you'll probably be climbing stairs. People smoke and drink, but it's usually spread throughout the day, at lunch, maybe after work over tapas and then at home with dinner. It's all very civilized.

The lifestyle difference go beyond just walking versus driving, chugging versus sipping. The American dream is to own a house and spend the next years making it the perfect place to sit and do nothing. Home entertainment systems are almost as common as microwaves and couches are as soft as beds. All this comfort and money means, of course, you're planning on spending the majority of time at home flipping through the hundreds of satellite T.V stations, enjoying the surround sound as your waist line grows.

The Spanish dream is not dissimilar to the American one; the biggest difference is to own a flat instead of a house. Still, unlike in the states, home is not the center of life in Spain. Cable TV is from ubiquitous and flat screens are just now becoming affordable. The street with its restaurants for the seniors, terraces for the parents and squares for the children is still the hub of activity, so instead of going home and watching the T.V fir three hours, you pop down the street to your favorite bar with friends for a drink and a chat before heading back home again.  Like I said, you walk a lot and thinking about it, over the course of the day you probably burn more calories just going from place to place than you would at the gym.

Then of course, there's the diet. Despite what my Spanish friends tell me, Americans don't only eat hamburgers and pizza. The food choices in a U.S. city are seemingly endless, offering something for everybody at a reasonable price.  It's the portions that could feed an African village, the love of sauces and free refills that pack on the pounds.

In fact, I think the healthiness of the Mediterranean diet is a bit of myth. Much of the food is fried, meats are eaten with abundance, along with carbohydrates like rice, bread and potatoes. They do eat more fish here and the amount on the plates is small, allowing the stomach to quickly digest the quantities. Plus the whole approach to eating is different, the meal to be savored here while I remember in the states it was to devoured to keep the energy up.

There is, also, a difference in the quality of the food. Visit the fruit and vegetable section of a U.S. market, even an organic one, and you'll be amazed at the bright colors and size of the produce. Judging from looks alone, you'd think the apples, oranges and carrots had been picked in the garden of Eden.  Try one and you'll find them as flavorful as a wax Hollywood prop. Same goes for those thick t-bone steaks and chickens the size of turkeys on display in the meats section. When I bite into a small, lumpy orange here, I can taste the citrus and nutrients; the steaks are succulent and the vegetables fresh.

I have to admit, though, that I don't have any statistics comparing the general health of Americans versus Spanish, just what my eyes tell me, and I think it isn't so much the diet than makes the latter healthier, but the lifestyle of getting out and walking and food removed of preservatives.

Mix-Mash Navidad

The arrival of a baby this year has added something special to the holiday season, although she's still too young to know who Santa Claus or the Magic Kings are and prefers boxes to toys. Still, it's never too early to revive old traditions and start new ones drawing on customs from her two nationalities (Spanish and American).

As I mentioned in a previous post, the holiday season here lasts a month and the main gift-giving day has traditionally been el Dia de Los Reyes Magos in January. In general, I've found the whole approach to presents quite different between Spain and the states. I remember back home feeling an intense pressure to buy and build the pile under the tree, rushing from store to store in a packed mall in a desperate search to find something for someone who seems to have everything.

Here, the number of presents tends to be singular maxing out at three or four. They are generally lower in monetary value, but more personal in nature, speaking to the recipient's personality rather than the latest it item according to all the magazines. The Spanish call it un detalle. Meanwhile, many shops are located in the old medieval part of the city whose tiny squares are full of merchant tents selling arts, crafts and food and whose stone churches might be housing a string quartet playing Bach.  It almost makes shopping and the crowds bearable.

I am glad, though, that the kid will be able to spend every other Christmas in the states. There's something infectious about the tacky decorations, catchy carols and bright lights. The holiday season there seems to be more festive than it is here. Perhaps its because of Catholicism and the fact that Christmas is first a religious ceremony, but the Spanish seem to be more restrained and somber in their celebrations that us enthusiastic Americans.

As a kid, the picking and decorating of the tree was what I enjoyed most about Christmas (after the presents of course!) One family tradition was buying a new ornament each year from somewhere off the beaten path and when I look at the tree now, it's so full of memories. It's definitely something I'm looking forward to sharing with the kid. Of course, my wife as equally fond memories of building the belén, or nativity scene, and placing the various figurines around the manger so that will definitely be something for us to do and I can't wait to visit the Christmas markets and have our daughter pick out her first Jesus, Mary and caganer. And since we live in Catalunya, she'll also have the caga tio adding a new tradition to the season.

When I think of Christmas, the first name that comes to mind is Santa Claus but he plays second fiddle to the Three Kings in Spain. Reconciling when to give presents, Christmas or King's day, isn't much of an issue anymore, however.  More and more Spanish parents are spreading out the gift-giving so their children will have something to play with over the holiday break and I imagine we'll do the same. Still, I am looking forward to putting this growing belly and white hair to use and donning the red suit on Christams Eve, shouting ho, ho, ho. I also promise to try not to be one of those bullish parents on the night of January 5th when the Kings parade through the city who knocks over granny for that piece of candy.

The one area that's impossible to find compromise is the food. My Spanish in-laws prefer fish, lobster and jamon iberico for Christmas dinner while my family back in the states sticks to the turkey, honey glazed ham and yams. Neither are adventurous enough to add new items to their menus. So far so good, the baby's not picky when it comes to food nor are her parents. The one tradition that we are able to introduce this year here, however, is Christmas crackers which comes from neither America nor Spain but England thanks to her paternal grandfather's side of the family.

Barcelona Streets - Joaquin Costa

One of my favorite streets to go out drinking with friends is Joaquin Costa. On the edge of El Raval near Plaça Universitat, it runs just off Roda Sant Antoni. It used to be a bit on the prostitute ridden side, but it goes through ebbs and flows.

If you start heading down you'll pass a closed movie theater and a little ways past that on the left is the Oddbar. Like it's name implies, it's a strange place inspired by Terry Gilliam's Tideland and decorated appropriately with bright color and bobblehead dolls. They're known for their mojitos and the staff is friendly with a crowd consisting of Barcelona's hipsters and it's got one of the trippiest bathrooms in town.

A little further down is Benidorm on the right. You have to buzz in and then walk down a short set of steps. It reminds me of the LA dive bars I used to frequent back in the day and there's usually good music playing in the background ranging from Lou Reed to hip-hop spun by a Finn to whatever the guest DJ is playing.

On the Corner is Casa Almirall, which is one of the older bars in Barcelona and I imagine how most places were a century or so ago. Inside, the elaborate wood work, high ceilings and wall size mirror gives it a modernist feel reminiscent of the buildings of the L'Eixample while the electronic music tends to be at a volume that requires you to just raise your voice.

Meanwhile, if you need to take a break from the boozing and line you stomach, there's a new burger joint called Betty Ford's, which according to Duncan at Barcelona Life is one of the best in town. For pizza lovers, there's Original Pizza which offers slices.

For other places to eat, Suzanne at Expatica did a nice job of compiling various posts.

The Burger King of Barcelona

I remember when I first came here, it was almost impossible to find a burger made of beef outside the Hardrock and MacDonalds. Why? Because the Spanish thought since it was called a hamburger, it must be made of ham, resulting in a paddy of ground pork that tasted like an undercooked sausage with a fried egg, lettuce and mayonnaise on top. And chances are if you go to a normal Spanish restaurant, this is what you will get.

But over the last seven years, there's also been, if not quite a boom, then a substantial increase of places serving a traditional hamburger, some even going so far as to offer authentic and unique twists on the sole meal most Spanish think Americans live on.

Most of the English Pubs offer some version of a beef paddy. They're normally American size (half a pound) and expensive.  There is also Fosters of Hollywood, which is an American theme restaurant that offers free refills on fountain sodas. But beyond these traditional places, there are also a two smaller restaurants that deserve a mention.


Pim Pam Burger in el Borne has a vocal and loyal following. In fact, many say it's the best burger in town, so much so that they are willing to put up with a staff who have adopted the Soup Nazi persona from Seinfeld and will pop a vein in anger if you disagree.  It's relatively cheap and tasty but with a bit too much mayonnaise for my liking.

My personal favorite is the Jazz Bar in Poble Sec where they jazz up (pun intended) their burgers with bean sauces, guacamole and other extras that make them unique to what else you'll find. Again, the cook is surly for even a Spaniard, making me wonder if they've been watching too much classic Saturday Night Live and John Belushi.

Poble Sec - Restaurants

As I've written a few times, in my humble opinion, I'd rank Poble Sec as one of the better neighborhoods of Barcelona.  It has a great night life with a unique collection of bars and clubs, yet without the drunken tourists that go to the Barrio Gotico, or the teenage botellons famous in Gracia.  It also has some great restaurants that cover a variety of cuisine.

Cal Penina is a traditional Catalan restaurant whose dark and wooden decor hearkens back to what I imagine Barcelona was like forty years ago.  Serving traditional dishes and tapas, it also has a raw fish bar, which means its not cheap with an average price of €24.  Meanwhile, on the flip side and a bit cheaper is Bar Seco which again offers traditional Catalan food, plus refreshing microbrews and an assortment of juices and bocadillos, which hopefully won't tear the roof of your mouth.

If you're looking to try other Spanish cuisine.  Bar Ramon on Calle Blai serves food from the Canary Islands with the potatos and ham being my favorite.  La Soleá offers a fusion of traditional recipes from Andalucia with Asian and African influences and is located in one of the great hidden squares of Barcelona: Plaza Sortido.  Finally, if you're in the mood for snails La Tomaquera is a local institution that quickly fills up on the weekends.

For those lovers of Italian you have two choices.  La Bella Napoli and El Golfo di Napoli.  The former is located further down Paral.lel towards the port and, if you ask most locals, they'll say it's the best Italian around.  Personally, I find it a bit overrated and prefer the latter, which is located at the top of Poble Sec behind Plaza Espanya and does a mean pesto risotto.  But either way, you're in for an authentic Italian meal; although not a cheap one.

Got a craving for meat?   There's a Brazilian place called Bahía Porto Mar near the Poble Sec metro, where slices of meat are carved off a slab that'd fill Henry VIII.  Restaurante Casa Colombia on the other hand offers a choice of cuts and one of the best hot sauces around.  

You Know You Live in Spain

When this picture makes you drool

I'll try and post something more expansive later, but I'm struggling for ideas.  Any suggestions?

Dinner with the Neighbors

This picture is taken from my window and shows the little street I live on getting ready to have a neighborhood dinner.   It was a great night and a reminder of the beauty that is the Spanish sense of community and family and their shared love of food. 



The official reason was the local festival that ended yesterday.  As you can see, the eating and meeting wasn't only just on my street, but on each and everyone both large and small.

While a common main dish was either a plate of paella or fideua, which is like paella but with noodles and a garlic mayonnaise.
 

Neighborhood Festivals - Poblenou

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One of the joys of summer in Barcelona are the neighborhood festivals.  Each barrio has one and they usually last a week with live music, food and local traditions.

The most popular and famous is in Gracia when the entire neighborhood is decorated with paper mache figurines and floats, making it feel a bit like Alice in Wonderland if it had been set in a city.  More infamous and - let's say twisted - is la festa major of Poble Sec where you might catch a DJ dressed in his underwear or see a tranny on a piano showing off the latest surgery at night, while gigantic paper mache statues of people or human castles can been seen during the day.   And, while both of these have come and gone - there's still on left for those of you who have just arrived in Barcelona - la festa major de Poblenou. (thx Linda for the link)

Starting on Sept 12h and running until the 20th, it offers a little bit of everything from games for kids to concerts featuring different styles from ska to Catalan Rumba while the final night ends literally with a bang thanks to fireworks at the beach.  At the top of this post if a map, showing where it is for anyone interested in visiting.  And if I have time, I'll translate the official page of events into English to give you some of the highlights.

Shopping in Spain

Coming from the states, one of the most difficult adjustments was going from the land of twenty-four hour convenience to a country where shops and stores pretty much open when they feel like it, or as they say in Spanish cuando les da la gana.  The whole concept of Spanish service is a bit of an oxymoron, because unlike in America where everything is catered to the consumer and you can buy anything at anytime, here it's basically - if you need it that bad, you'll find to time to get it.  And, if you have a problem with that: tough, it is what it is. 

I remember getting really frustrated by this attitude my first year here.  I couldn't believe everything closed at the one time I was free during the week (lunch), or that come two o'clock on a Saturday most businesses were shut for the weekend, not to mention not being unable to go to the supermarket on a Sunday for some milk and bread when the only establishments open were the bars and churches.  How on earth did they expect a person to buy anything and keep their economy going? I thought as only an American could.

But over time I realized: whereas in the states I went to massive stores like Staples for stationary, Home Depot for hardware and Costco for my shopping, where the employees worked in shifts to provide maximum service; in Spain it was the small family run papeleria two doors down for pens and notebooks, the ferretería a block away for a hammer or screwdriver and the el mercado down the street for my groceries.  Most of them were run by a couple with maybe their kids pitching in, which made two in the afternoon time for a family lunch and the weekends a necessary break from their jobs.

Besides, the whole concept of shopping here was different to what I had previously know.  Back in Los Angeles, I'd hop in the car, drive a few kilometers, fight to find a place to park, and wander through places that were more warehouses than shops with ceiling high shelves of prepackaged, super-sized products sold in bulk at discount rates.  Then, when my cart was stacked high, I'd wait at the check-out counter where a clerk would mindlessly scan all that I had bought, before loading up the trunk of my car and returning home with enough food to feed an African village - much of it going to waste as the expiration date passed before I got a chance to eat or drink it.

Meanwhile in Barcelona, shopping began in the morning with the smell of baked pastries and bread in the air.  Taking carrito with me, I'd step outside and start the day with a coffee at a local bar before heading to the panadería for my freshly baked bread and croissants.  Next I'd walk to the local market that was full of stands that specialized in different foods.  There were multiple carnicerías for different cuts of meat, charcuterías for the many Spanish hams and cheeses, fruterías for fresh fruits and vegetables and pescaderías for just caught fish and seafood.  Each person shopping seemed to have their favorite one, as did I, and when my number was called, I'd step to the counter and receive a warm hello that would lead to a conversation about our families and the weather as the couple working tended to my needs, knowing what I liked and didn't like.  Then when the carrito was full with enough food to get me through the next few days, I'd head to the market bar for a small beer and a sandwich before returning home.

Even the fact that everything closed on Saturday afternoon had become a positive, because by forcing me to do all my shopping in the morning and not putting it off until the last minute like I did in the states, I now had the rest of the weekend free to enjoy: whether it be going to the beach in the summer or laying on the couch and watching TV in the winter.

Spanish Facts and Trivia

If you ever find yourself walking around a city in Spain on a Thursday afternoon, take a look at the menus outside the restaurants, and chances are you'll find almost all of them offer a plate of paella for one of the dishes.

The predominate theory for this custom can be traced back to Franco's time.  A fanatic of paella, Thursday was when he normally went out for lunch in Madrid.  Never one to repeat a restaurant, he instead paid suprise visits to various establishments, meaning that they all had better have paella prepared, or else face one displeased dictator, and so the tradition was born.

For those of you with a culinary bent, here's one recipe for the dish translated from Spanish. It uses chicken, instead of the more traditional shrimp, mussels, clams, and squid, but it gives you an idea.  Besides: the secret to a good paella is the rice.

Ingredients:

• 600 grams of rice
  
  1/2 chicken, diced
  2 artichokes
  
  2 medium size red peppers
  
  2 ripe tomatoes
  
  Crushed pepper
  
  One garlic clove
  
  Parsley
  
  1 herb of saffron
  
  Olive Oil (one glass, 1/4 liter)
  
  1/2 lemon
  
  A sprig of rosemary and thyme
  
  Salt 

Steps:

1: Fry the chicken in the olive oil. Once fried, boil with 8 glasses of water.

2: Saute the artichokes and peppers together.  Once done, saute the garlic separately.

3: The garlic now sauteed add the rice and mix the two together, stirring occasionally and adding the diced tomatoes

4: Before finishing sauteing the rice, tomatoes and garlic,add them to the boiling the chicken, (it should be boiling for 30 min prior).  Squeeze in the lemon and add the artichokes and red peppers, with a pinch of pepper in addition to the parsley, rosemary, saffron, thyme and salt.

5: With the food now ready, place a large pan on the stove and add the ingredients.  At first use a high flame, lowering it after about ten minutes.  The total time for the rise should be around 20  mins (plus five more to set.)

It's now ready to serve.

Let me know how it turns out.

Summer Time and the Livin's Easy

The sunny days and rising temperatures of the last few weeks has me daydreaming about summertime in Barcelona.  Right now the weather's perfect - warm and breezy - but soon the real heat and humidity will arrive, making trips to the beach and nights spent outside mandatory, unless you enjoy sweating profusely.

Of course the beach in Barcelona, and in Spain in general, doesn't only involve tanning and swimming, but also time spent at one of the country's greatest inventions - el chiringuito, which are the small bars you´ll find along almost all Spanish beaches.  The perfect spot to cool off and whet the whistle with cold beer, sangria or tinto de verano (red wine with either 7-up, Orange Fanta or lemonade) after roasting in the hot sun, many also serve traditional Spanish dishes like paella and tapas, in addition to such standards as sandwhiches and salads.   They aren't cheap by any stretch of the imagination, but that's the price one pays to sit outside in the shade and listen to the waves.