As I've written a few times, in my humble opinion, I'd rank Poble Sec as one of the better neighborhoods of Barcelona. It has a great night life with a unique collection of bars and clubs, yet without the drunken tourists that go to the Barrio Gotico, or the teenage botellons famous in Gracia. It also has some great restaurants that cover a variety of cuisine.
Cal Penina is a traditional Catalan restaurant whose dark and wooden decor hearkens back to what I imagine Barcelona was like forty years ago. Serving traditional dishes and tapas, it also has a raw fish bar, which means its not cheap with an average price of €24. Meanwhile, on the flip side and a bit cheaper is Bar Seco which again offers traditional Catalan food, plus refreshing microbrews and an assortment of juices and bocadillos, which hopefully won't tear the roof of your mouth.
If you're looking to try other Spanish cuisine. Bar Ramon on Calle Blai serves food from the Canary Islands with the potatos and ham being my favorite. La Soleá offers a fusion of traditional recipes from Andalucia with Asian and African influences and is located in one of the great hidden squares of Barcelona: Plaza Sortido. Finally, if you're in the mood for snails La Tomaquera is a local institution that quickly fills up on the weekends.
For those lovers of Italian you have two choices. La Bella Napoli and El Golfo di Napoli. The former is located further down Paral.lel towards the port and, if you ask most locals, they'll say it's the best Italian around. Personally, I find it a bit overrated and prefer the latter, which is located at the top of Poble Sec behind Plaza Espanya and does a mean pesto risotto. But either way, you're in for an authentic Italian meal; although not a cheap one.
Got a craving for meat? There's a Brazilian place called Bahía Porto Mar near the Poble Sec metro, where slices of meat are carved off a slab that'd fill Henry VIII. Restaurante Casa Colombia on the other hand offers a choice of cuts and one of the best hot sauces around.
Showing posts with label poble sec. Show all posts
Showing posts with label poble sec. Show all posts
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
The Magic Fountains of Montjuic
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Bars - Poble Sec
Of all the barrios of Barcelona, Poble Sec has always been my favorite place to hit the town. Not as trendy as el Borne or as packed with tourists as el Barrio Gotico, its eclectic mix of bars and vibrant streets is where's you'll find the city's more bohemian and artistic crowd heading out; along with an interesting mix of local characters such as Pepe the gypsy artist whose knowledge of English consists of porn dialog, and Steve - a transplanted Liverpudlian with an encyclopedic knowledge of beer an a quick wit.
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Most of the action takes place between the Poble Sec and Parallel metro stations. On the south side of the Avenue is Barcelona's theater district, and behind it - the start of Calle Blai. A terrific little street filled with terraces and bars that serve food, it's the perfect place to grab a drink and a snack if you're out during the late afternoon or early evening when most of Barcelona's other places are closed. Two of my particular favorites are Bar Zodiac on the corner of Calle Margarit and Bar Ramon a little further down. Both offer a limited menu of non typical Spanish dishes with the latter specializing in tapas from the Canary Islands, and a selection of draft beers that aren't Estrella or San Miguel.
If you're there at night around ten, walk up Margarit a few blocks to number 43 and the Jazz Bar for a selection of German and local brews to wash down some of the best sandwiches and burgers in town, or head to Bar Rouge on Poeta Cabanas for a comfy seat on a plush sofa and take in some memorable tunes or an impromptu show, while sipping on a potent cocktail. It's also now the place where a Spanish and English poets group meets, if that's your thing. And, if those aren't enough: there's always La Tinta Roja!
But that's just the Montjuic side of Poble Sec, cross Parallel to Ronda Pau and you'll literally find one cool bar right after the other, starting with La Confiteria - a renovated bakery from the end of the nineteenth century - and ending with Ultramarinos where you're likely to watch a fish documentary while a DJ spins anything from soul to house.
And, if at three in the morning, you're still standing with energy to burn, cross back over to the Apollo night club or Discoteca Plataforma on Nou de la Rambla, 145 if you feel like booging to a mix of cheesy rock tunes.
On a cautionary note: Poble Sec is safer than el Raval and el Barrio Gotic, but it's still best to be mindful of your wallets and not get blinding drunk.
Ver mapa más grande
Most of the action takes place between the Poble Sec and Parallel metro stations. On the south side of the Avenue is Barcelona's theater district, and behind it - the start of Calle Blai. A terrific little street filled with terraces and bars that serve food, it's the perfect place to grab a drink and a snack if you're out during the late afternoon or early evening when most of Barcelona's other places are closed. Two of my particular favorites are Bar Zodiac on the corner of Calle Margarit and Bar Ramon a little further down. Both offer a limited menu of non typical Spanish dishes with the latter specializing in tapas from the Canary Islands, and a selection of draft beers that aren't Estrella or San Miguel.
If you're there at night around ten, walk up Margarit a few blocks to number 43 and the Jazz Bar for a selection of German and local brews to wash down some of the best sandwiches and burgers in town, or head to Bar Rouge on Poeta Cabanas for a comfy seat on a plush sofa and take in some memorable tunes or an impromptu show, while sipping on a potent cocktail. It's also now the place where a Spanish and English poets group meets, if that's your thing. And, if those aren't enough: there's always La Tinta Roja!
But that's just the Montjuic side of Poble Sec, cross Parallel to Ronda Pau and you'll literally find one cool bar right after the other, starting with La Confiteria - a renovated bakery from the end of the nineteenth century - and ending with Ultramarinos where you're likely to watch a fish documentary while a DJ spins anything from soul to house.
And, if at three in the morning, you're still standing with energy to burn, cross back over to the Apollo night club or Discoteca Plataforma on Nou de la Rambla, 145 if you feel like booging to a mix of cheesy rock tunes.
On a cautionary note: Poble Sec is safer than el Raval and el Barrio Gotic, but it's still best to be mindful of your wallets and not get blinding drunk.
Sunday, April 5, 2009
Montjuic Mountain and the Castle
THE MOUNTAIN
Called the Jewish mountain in Catalan and rising 100-meters above the Mediterranean sea, Montjuïc's history is in may ways that of Barcelona. Artifacts discovered date the first settlement to the second century and the ruins of the Jewish cemetery on the south side hearken back to a different time: when areas such as Barrio Gotico were known as as Calls and were teaming Jewish centers. Reaching 15% of the population by the time the Lateran Council in Rome ordered non-Christians to wear a special dress (in Catalunya it was gold and yellow, now the colors of the national flag), the Attack of Calls in 1391 saw their population decimated and their tombs used as building materials, while even the converted were expelled with the arrival of Queen Isabel and King Fernando in 1492.
The International Exposition in 1929 transformed Montjuic and Barcelona. Wild gardens donated by a rich benefactor 20 years earlier became places to lazily wander on hot summer's days with the addition of stairs and paths that all linked to an open-air theater, El Grec, which still hosts many music and dance concerts in the summer months. The Olympic games in 1992 brought the Olimpic Stadium, the public swimming pools with a city view and the strange looking communication antenna, introducing the second great transformation of its historic slopes.
THE CASTLE
Because of its strategic location, Montjuic has always had some type of fortification with the current occupant built in 1640. Used to bombard Barcelona during the Spanish War of Succession it fell from Spanish into Austrian hands for nearly ten years and was overtaken by Napoleon in 1808. In the latter part of the 19th century it was converted into a prison, where the military courts known as Montjuic Process were infamous for the torture handed out to the convicted anarchists and successionists; and it remained in that capacity until the 1960's when Franco ordered it closed and turned into a military museum. Today, you can find many in Barcelona flocking to its historic grounds in the summer months when the castle becomes a place to meet friends and have a picnic as a movie projects onto its walls or a stand showcases a local band. Get there early because it's limited capacity.
The International Exposition in 1929 transformed Montjuic and Barcelona. Wild gardens donated by a rich benefactor 20 years earlier became places to lazily wander on hot summer's days with the addition of stairs and paths that all linked to an open-air theater, El Grec, which still hosts many music and dance concerts in the summer months. The Olympic games in 1992 brought the Olimpic Stadium, the public swimming pools with a city view and the strange looking communication antenna, introducing the second great transformation of its historic slopes.THE CASTLE
Because of its strategic location, Montjuic has always had some type of fortification with the current occupant built in 1640. Used to bombard Barcelona during the Spanish War of Succession it fell from Spanish into Austrian hands for nearly ten years and was overtaken by Napoleon in 1808. In the latter part of the 19th century it was converted into a prison, where the military courts known as Montjuic Process were infamous for the torture handed out to the convicted anarchists and successionists; and it remained in that capacity until the 1960's when Franco ordered it closed and turned into a military museum. Today, you can find many in Barcelona flocking to its historic grounds in the summer months when the castle becomes a place to meet friends and have a picnic as a movie projects onto its walls or a stand showcases a local band. Get there early because it's limited capacity.
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Neighborhoods - Poble Sec
Stretching from Plaza Espanya to the Port, with Avinguda Parallel on one side and Montjuic mountain on the other, Poble Sec (Dry Town) is one of Barcelona's smaller and, in all honesty, least attractive neighborhoods. Still, while it may lack in the beauty department, it more than makes up for it with a lively nightlife, great restaurants and the largest park in Barcelona.
Originally a shanty town that rested outside the city's walls, it grew into an industrial area at the beginning of the twentieth century, and is now a diverse and multicultural neighborhood, which is both walking distance (30 mins) to the city-center and the beach.
Start your day at Plaza Espanya and ride the escalator up to the impressive buildings that house the National Catalan Museum of Art in addition to roving art and cultural exhibitions, before taking the time to explore the mountain and its many gardens. If you've never been to Spain, definitely check out Poble Espanyol to get a taste of this rich and diverse country, and if you're an art aficionado there's the Joan Miro Museum. The further you walk up the gradual but windy slope, the better the view of Barcelona, with the best coming from the castle that sits ominously on its top.
Coming down will bring you to the tight, narrow, busy streets, and gray buildings of Poble Sec. Hungry after all that walking? There's a Kebab on every corner for if you're running low on funds and have a strong stomach, a local Spanish bar every two doors with tapas, menus and sandwiches for a mid-price meal, and one of Barcelona's better Italian restaurants if you feel like a bit of luxury. After, if you're there in the summer, sit outside at on of the hundred of terraces that line the sidewalks and small squares, relax and people-watch. One of the better streets is Calle Blai with its crazy French Poodle and hip local bars, restaurants and Vermut spots.
At the bottom of Avinguda Parallel is Barcelona's theatre district and El Molino, which was known as Barcelona's "Tiny Moulin Rouge" during the early part of the twentieth century before closing its doors and falling into disrepair by the mid-ninties. In a win for cultural heritage, there are plans of re-opening it soon. Just remember - You're in Spain, so the shows aren't in English even if their titles are. Still, there are plenty of great bars like la Tinta Roja to grab a drink and recap the day, and after there's the Apollo night club for a little dancing.
Originally a shanty town that rested outside the city's walls, it grew into an industrial area at the beginning of the twentieth century, and is now a diverse and multicultural neighborhood, which is both walking distance (30 mins) to the city-center and the beach.
Coming down will bring you to the tight, narrow, busy streets, and gray buildings of Poble Sec. Hungry after all that walking? There's a Kebab on every corner for if you're running low on funds and have a strong stomach, a local Spanish bar every two doors with tapas, menus and sandwiches for a mid-price meal, and one of Barcelona's better Italian restaurants if you feel like a bit of luxury. After, if you're there in the summer, sit outside at on of the hundred of terraces that line the sidewalks and small squares, relax and people-watch. One of the better streets is Calle Blai with its crazy French Poodle and hip local bars, restaurants and Vermut spots.
At the bottom of Avinguda Parallel is Barcelona's theatre district and El Molino, which was known as Barcelona's "Tiny Moulin Rouge" during the early part of the twentieth century before closing its doors and falling into disrepair by the mid-ninties. In a win for cultural heritage, there are plans of re-opening it soon. Just remember - You're in Spain, so the shows aren't in English even if their titles are. Still, there are plenty of great bars like la Tinta Roja to grab a drink and recap the day, and after there's the Apollo night club for a little dancing.
Friday, April 3, 2009
Barcelona Nightlife - Bars
While Barcelona might not have the club scene of other major cities, it isn't lacking in bars. Every neighborhood offers a distinct flavor and unique places to meet friends and grab a drink before hitting the dance floor. Here are the ones I always take friends to when they come to visit:
Bar Manchester in the Raval. Looking for a cool spot and some good music? As the name suggests, this dark little bar pays homage to the English independent music scene, so don't be surprised to hear Joy Division, the Stone Roses or Radiohead playing. Beers aren't cheap by Barcelona standards at 2.50 a piece, but they make a mean mojito, and the staff is good about accomodating song requests.
Ask me to name one bar that defines Barcelona, and I would have to say the Tinta Roja in Poble Sec. Walk through the glass and wooden door to something from an Almodovar movie with a bizarre mix of styles, combining old European vaudeville, Argentinian tango, and what I call erotic kitsch. At the far back is a stage for live events where you might catch a local band, belly-dancers, or fire jugglers. Not the place to spend the night on a tight budget, but a must-see.
If you're out wandering during the day, you'll enevitably end up on Portal de L'Angel, which is the promenade lined with shops just north of Las Ramblas, heading towards the Gothic Cathedral. If so, and you feel like stopping and resting your sore feet, I suggest paying Casa de Extremadura a visit. Located on the left-hand side, across from El Corte Ingles, walk up the stone steps into a converted flat that pays tribute to the Spanish Autonomy for which it's named and smell the tapas cooking. Continue through to the large patio and take a seat at one of the plastic tables, and suddenly it seems like you're not in the congested city anymore and you feel your body relax. The beers and limited tapas menu are cheap for Barcelona, so take advantage and fill your stomach - just don't expect service with a smile - It's Spanish afterall.
There's a big football match on and need a place to go? The George and Dragon English pub off Passeig de Gracia is the place. With the biggest screen in Barcelona, it's beer selection of draught German Pilsners and English Ales is what separates it from the other theme bars. That, and the owner, Simon, a friendly Brit whose knowledge of Barcelona is second to none and a great resource if you need some advice on a place to eat or visit.
Bar Manchester in the Raval. Looking for a cool spot and some good music? As the name suggests, this dark little bar pays homage to the English independent music scene, so don't be surprised to hear Joy Division, the Stone Roses or Radiohead playing. Beers aren't cheap by Barcelona standards at 2.50 a piece, but they make a mean mojito, and the staff is good about accomodating song requests.
Ask me to name one bar that defines Barcelona, and I would have to say the Tinta Roja in Poble Sec. Walk through the glass and wooden door to something from an Almodovar movie with a bizarre mix of styles, combining old European vaudeville, Argentinian tango, and what I call erotic kitsch. At the far back is a stage for live events where you might catch a local band, belly-dancers, or fire jugglers. Not the place to spend the night on a tight budget, but a must-see.
If you're out wandering during the day, you'll enevitably end up on Portal de L'Angel, which is the promenade lined with shops just north of Las Ramblas, heading towards the Gothic Cathedral. If so, and you feel like stopping and resting your sore feet, I suggest paying Casa de Extremadura a visit. Located on the left-hand side, across from El Corte Ingles, walk up the stone steps into a converted flat that pays tribute to the Spanish Autonomy for which it's named and smell the tapas cooking. Continue through to the large patio and take a seat at one of the plastic tables, and suddenly it seems like you're not in the congested city anymore and you feel your body relax. The beers and limited tapas menu are cheap for Barcelona, so take advantage and fill your stomach - just don't expect service with a smile - It's Spanish afterall.
There's a big football match on and need a place to go? The George and Dragon English pub off Passeig de Gracia is the place. With the biggest screen in Barcelona, it's beer selection of draught German Pilsners and English Ales is what separates it from the other theme bars. That, and the owner, Simon, a friendly Brit whose knowledge of Barcelona is second to none and a great resource if you need some advice on a place to eat or visit.
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